Thanks todhunter, I had thought of something similar for the 2 pedestal plates and 1 chair I have. I must say yours looks way nicer than what I had in mind. Although I must say that I am really into what the previous owners did with the combo seats.
These are original front and back 2 person...
Here are a few shots of the deck. I used a squeegee to try and even out low spots and then 2 coats of non-waxed gel-coat. During the second coat I sprinkled soft-sand on the top and followed with waxed gel-coat.
I had a question about how to seal screws that need to go back in the deck, and the screws may be removed at some point. I have silicon and Marine PL, but was wondering if I shouldn’t use anything or maybe there is something better. I have battery trays and panels to reattach and I hate the...
Finally! I was able to throw out my fiberglass work cloths today, so am quite happy.
I have added three addition bulkheads in the center bilge as opposed to the original one at the stern.
The deck is on and 2lb foam is done. Originally I had purchased 3 sheets of ¾ inch marine plywood but need...
Thank you everyone for the valuable input. Unfortunately I didn’t realize my thread had a second page and didn’t see any responses after my last post, so I ended up buying 2 gallons of Hurculiner. After seeing the posts I tried to return it, but apparently flammable substance can’t be returned...
I was wondering if anyone has tried a truck bed liner like rhino-liner or herculiner for a deck coating? I saw a few examples of people using them as an outside hull coating but not too much of anyone using it on the deck. From what I understand there is no UV protection so it will fade, but it...
Thanks for the reply Baylinerchuck,
Do you need to bed the stringers in PB? or PL Premium etc.
I have spent several hours on this site and others trying to find out what is what, concerning the hardiness, and flexibility of PB, and whether you should or need to fill any voids. One person will...
More progress has been made and here is my current update. If I am doing something wrong, tell me why, it would be greatly appreciated.
To remove the rotten ass stringers, I used a reciprocating saw and tried to fillet them out so I would have the least amount of glass left and a good template...
I was able to get the strake done today, not pretty but should last a while. The original strake wood was 1” marine plywood beveled at a 30° angle. There were two sections, one 5’ long from the stern, and another about 4’ long in the bow. After I cut out the top glass I was able to just pop out...
From what I can tell, only one person has performed below deck repairs. I think the rotten keel as it were is only a 2" strip of marine plywood mounted horizontaly, encaased in some glass an resin, so not a big deal. However the more I take out of this boat I feal the more flexibilty exists, so...
I don't think its brick molding, I think its an actual door frame, and spare parts and such. To be mounted correctly, I would have turned it sideways so the teeth line up for maximum stress; but I won't be using door parts...yet.
Here are some pics of the port side, much like the starboard side, OSB falling apart, random scrap painted wood used for sister stringers, and if you look to the center bilge you can see the door frame parts I was talking about. Just why? My favorite part, drywall screws, and assorted nails...
Thanks for the response.
Hell no I don’t want to take the cap off. Everything above deck is in remarkably good condition for being 45 years old.
I had considered taking it out on a run after I had bought it, but there was concern the hull may buckle at full throttle. So I kept on taking things...
I have only cut out the starboard side so far to clean things up to get a better look at what I’m dealing with. I have all of the foam pulled out; the white areas would seem to indicate that it was the original foam.
I do have a few questions if anyone would like to provide input.
How close...
