So an update on this saga. After opening new thermo housing again I noticed quite a bit of rusted metal chips in my manifold and cleaned it out. Did this a last year as well when I replaced the housing and stat. Also put in another thermostat from the automotive store. Problem seems to be solved...
Thanks. I did open thermo to verify placed correctly and it was a brand new housing and thermo. Update is I put in the ocean and test ran it with same issue for about 20 min. opened her up to about 3500 rpm for a about 10 min and the temp gauge finally started to move, engine eventually reached...
Update on this. Found the brand new never used but installed for 1 year, shift bellows torn in 2 places. Replaced. Checked thermostat for proper install.
Just ran it with the muffs for about 10 in. Saw no water anywhere. engine temp did not break 115 and intake manifold was cold. top of risers were warm and area around the thermo housing. port exhaust water was splattering while starboard was more stream like. felt under the port Y pipe but did...
ok, yeah, I had a concern about one of those but they are located on each side of the block. I suppose I should see it with the muffs on too, no? would that be the reason the engine was cold ?? I can see an engine overheating but never getting warm, got me.
So, 4 years a carb rebuild new exh/risers, thermo and housing, trim units, gimbal bearing, bellows shift cable, sei drive etc... everything seemed like go in the driveway. at the launch, i noticed water in the bilge and saw a leak from one of the risers between the boot and Y pipe. nothing major...
Trying to remove the hydraulic rams and pin form my transom assembly and they won't free. WD-40'd and light hammering/prying, nothing. Seem to be fused with the plastic bushings and really don't want to snap the transom/gimbal assembly by hammering too hard. Can they be heated to melt the...
did test despite having new coil delivred last night. failed test and put in coil. wouldn't ya know it. old one had maybe 40 hours or less but had been sitting for 4 years. don't know why last summer it fired and last fall it wouldn't, but in the past now. idled a little rough at about 650 rpm...
Yes, I understood what you were talking about but had the ecu on my mind when you referenced thunderbolt. I always assumed the ecu was part of that. So again, referring to the diagram to test the module. I connect the sparkgap to the "COIL" and ground it, then tap the green/wht fast to ground...
Sorry, no, I sold the $500 ECU module I didn't need. How does that distributor module come out? I have to remove the distributor or just the cap to access it?
it is a 3 wire. I'm a little leary of connecting the coil to ground with the spark gap tester. Was that the coil side or distributor side of the coil connection?
wow, I bought a timing lite, figured that may help while cranking the engine :) Thanks! I had the same problem a few years ago as well and didn't understand why the engine was cranking without charging the battery for so long. Bought a new everything including ecu. finally put some jumper cables...
Update: put new plugs in and cleaned and re-seated the coil connection. Took out plugs to do a compression test and one specifically was wet the others smelled of fuel. Not sure if that was due to turning the engine over once before testing. Compression was between 158 and 180 so I believe it...
