I am rebuilding my 4.3 2bbl carb and the screw inside the choke that holds the choke plate rod was rusted and stripped.. So I am wondering if I even need the choke and choke plate at all since the wires running to it were cut. Pictures below point to what I am saying.
I have been looking everywhere for a carb rebuild kit for a 2 barrel 4.3l carb. I believe I have the 3310-807764A1 carb based on my engines 0M614999 serial number. I'd like to find a Sierra rebuild kit but nothing comes up. There seems to be plenty of other generic after market kits though.
So this is a multi question topic, so I guess I will just ask them in order:
1. Is it normal for the blue of my hull to come off on a rag when using Star Brite's cleaner wax?
2. How do I get that dull/cloudy look out from the hull? I have tried starbrites compound, cleaner wax, polish, etc..
3...
I need to replace these hold downs for the rear sun bathing bench / engine cover since they are shot and cracking. Does anyone know what they are called or something that would work just as well?
So my new 4.3l engine (new block and heads from rapidomarine.com) with the vortec valve covers is leaking oil around the bottom of the head at the rear starboard. Atleast it seems from there since that's where I see the most oil buildup. Seems to increase leaking/spray when at full throttle.
1...
So I noticed a little oil in the bilge and on the left side of the engine by the engine mount. It's hard to pinpoint exactly where its coming from, but seems around the valve cover or maybe the actual head. What concerns me is the valve cover and exhaust are completely touching, is this normal...
So I finally have the cracked 4.3 back into my 18.5 starcraft and going to be taking it out in a day or two. What is the break in period and recommendations? And when should I change the oil?
So I bought a new engine block from RapidoMarine.com as others have on this forum, and when it arrived it said it was a 090M like my old cracked block is. Turns out after getting half the things install on the block, I realized that some of my metric bolts/studs would not fit. They screwed up...
I was going to have the timing and engine alignment by a local mobile marine guy since I don't have either of those tools and thought I would just have him take care of the bad shift bellow at the same time. He said you need to replace the shift cable at the same time. Is this true? I have...
So I am swapping everything on my cracked 2002 4.3l to a new 4.3l block. I got the harmonic balancer off, but I noticed the old shaft has some sort of metal wheel on it and the new one doesn't. Do I need to swap this over, or is it normal for the new one not to have it?
Also, any one know why...
So my 4.3 block cracked due to not being winterized by previous owner (milky oil started coming from the header/valve cover vents) so I bought a new block from RapidoMarine and have a local marine mechanic coming to help me do the change over, timing, etc.
My question is, should I buy all new...
I have a 4.3l year 2002 with a cracked block. I ordered a new one and its arriving tomorrow. I have pulled and swapped engines before on cars, but never had to swap all components from one block to another. Is there anything I should know or suggestions being a rookie at this?
Should you be able to push this 50A button on the top of the engine? I assume its a breaker/fuse of some sort for the main engine harness, or is it a kill switch of some sort? I ask because mine does not move and I want to make sure that is as intended.
Does anyone know the cheapest place to get a replacement 4.3l block with heads? I found one on ebay for $1550 + 250 for shipping. I read on here people saying it shouldn't cost more than $1000, but where are they getting their 4.3 replacement from then?
I ran my 4.3l Mercruiser today for the first time in actual water (not the garden hose) and after 3-5 minutes of running milky oil started coming out of the valve/header vent hoses that connect to the flame arrestor/intake filter. When I got the boat a month ago I found the free plugs on both...
