I don't think anything is locked up. He said the drive spun freely in neutral and solidly went ("locked") into forward and reverse. That was my understanding, anyway. So the suggestion of PB Blaster, a strap to turn the crank, and preoiling with the distributor shaft are probably unnecessary...
Sounds like a awesome project.
If it was put up in 2006 with fuel in the tank, then the tank will have to be removed and cleaned out, and all the old hoses replaced. Don't just put in some gas to see what happens. If you want to try to start it before then, use a temporary tank with fresh gas...
Thank you for that very helpful information. It appears the hook as a drive support in transit was a thing they did for a few years in the 70's, then decided it was not a great idea after all. By today's standards it is not a good idea, and it won't be easy to find a replacement. That's...
Thanks for your attention to my problem. Is your advice based more on theory or do you remember what the steel hook was intended to be used for back in the 70's? The "ground truth" is this hook came with the boat, and at least the prior owner and I have been using it to backup the rams in...
So you don't remember a hook being used back in the '70's? Or later but with drives sold in the '70's?
If you didn't already, please look at the photos in my original post link. (For some reason I can't add them here, sorry.)
I'm just trying to do the right thing. If the right thing is not...
I assume they do as long as there is not a leak somewhere, and the hook is a mechanical back up?
The boat came with this hook when I bought it a couple of years ago. Was this not standard equipment and usage back in the day? I know later models did not come with a lifting loop.
I need to replace the holder-upper hook thing on my MC-1. (Don't ask why.). The metal hook that goes between the lifting loop in the top cover of the stern drive to the transom, to hold it up in the raised position.
I can't find one by searching, but it is probably because I don't know the...
Speedi Sleeve 99227 if you go that route. Mine had a groove that would not have polished out, and I bet yours will too. You don't even have to break off the installation flange.
It was a piece of cake. You may see a reference to some extensions needed, but I did not need them. The cables just drop into position and are good to go. I did have to change the orientation of the front to the back, but that was very easy.
I replaced my cable last summer. '76 MC-1. Had the old style cable. Tapped the hole and installed the new style cable.
Had the old style shift shaft bushing, replaced that too. The old style seal on it was not a very good design and yours is probably failed or failing, which causes bad...
