I wouldn't do it this way. Cut a plug out of marine ply. Get it soaking wet with poly and secure it in place with 5200. Grind this down just enough for two layers of 1708 with the smallest first. Next, either drill and cut the same hole again and install your plates or relocate the new hole to a...
I see you got some good advice from top experts on the subject. But, for the benefit of newcomers, this question has been one of the most FAQ on the site so I will try to sum up what was said before.
Once epoxy always epoxy. Any poly products (including Gel Coat) will not adhere to Epoxy...
I have a situation here that I hope you guys might be able to help me sort out. I lost my Bravo 3 last summer to a submerged log. The outer prop broke loose with the shaft attached and the drive ran on saltwater instead of oil, so it is toast. The drive was 2.0 ration with 24P dual props...
I would use either 3M 4200 or 4000 (I prefer the 4000 for this job). Coat the sides of the hole with thin film of the sealer pushing it inside all wood as much as you can as opposed to just let it float on the sides. Let this cure for an hour or so and apply another thin film. If your finish...
You can do that if the area is sloped. What I meant was to align the seams between layers in such a way that they are not coincided. For example, if you lay the pieces of the first layer so that the seams are horizontal, the seams of the second layer would be vertical. Like this ..
My very first concern would be to determine how the deck is attached to the cap. I found this picture on the Internet and I think it can demonstrate my point ( even though it is a funny pic, I did not mean for it to be a joke )
is the deck resting on a bed of foam as in the picture? How...
Gentlemen,
I lost my Bravo 3 last summer to a submerged log. My plan is to rebuild my 454 and get a new Bravo 3X. However, I have a Bravo 2 with the same ratio (2.00) in my garage that I bought for my other boat to replace the Alpha. Can I run my 2855 on that Bravo 2 for a summer or two...
I assume by the "inside sides" you mean the side panels of the boat ... basically these
If this is the case, nothing special. Just make sure the edges of the cut are routed to break any sharp edges that might cut through the vinyl. You don't need to use a router, a sander with 80 grit sand...
2 by 6 will do the job just fine. If you go with an angled stand, I would add a cross brace between the horizontal base and the vertical frame and I would also reveres where the motor is installed on the stand. Like this
Not exactly. I am saying fabricate the bracket itself on an angle so when it sits on the angled transom the two angles complement each other to 180
Like this
Sorry for the rough sketch, I am at work and about to run to a meeting. The angled black line is your transom. The red is the bracket...
First, I have been following your thread from the beginning, you and the admiral doing excellent job.
So, you are thinking of doing something like this (roughly speaking)?
Or this....
If so, my first choice would be to fabricate the kicker motor bracket to compensate for the angel not...
Thanks!
When you said "I have a gallon of epoxy I would like to use and then paint over gel" what did you mean by that? First, were you referring to the hull or the bottom section? And, is it an Epoxy resin or Epoxy paint? If it is resin, what you want to use it for?
For the bottom paint, read...
A year old could be too old for poly resin. Did you have any crystals in the gel?
1% isn't bad for the 70F. If you want increase it by 0.25 or 0.5 but I wouldn't double it. If you read the USComposites catalyst mixing ratio sheet, you will find them recommending 0.7%
Too much MEKP can lead to...
I was referring to these. The side to side members of the grid the original poster was talking about. These are called bulkheads.
And by the way, what you refer to as "floors" are correctly called "decks" in the marine world.
