If you want to upgrade the option from merc is the hei delco ignition and it works fine.
Takes some savvy and a dedication to install with an understanding of electronic ignition systems
You could always revert to some kind of weird aftermarket system but they don't work as well ime, if your t...
There's a fairly simple test to determine if the ignition sensor in the distributor is faulty. Surprised no one has posted the manual page
Once you've concluded the sensor is at fault, a new coil along with an OEM sensor is your best bet
See post #13
The L29 mpi used two different styles of injectior rails, one cast (triangular shaped) and one stamped (one piece covering both sides
The stamped one is a GM oem part with a fixed damper/regulator that is not serviceable and may be the cause of your issue (running rich, especially...
This is most likely the culprit. It is called the ignition sensor and located in the distributor, under the cap. It's a hall effect sensor that the MEFI controlled, tbi, thunderbolt ignition efi engine ecm uses as a crank position sensor
The two wire sensors are obsolete. Get yourself an oem...
Its possible that's the case. There is an updated, stiffer spring available from merc but it's more for older alpha/mc1 systems. Most gen 2 setups came with the stiffer v spring from the factory. The newer v spring will have yellow or white paint at the tips
I've had the spring loaded shift...
Check the vacuum lines that connect to the fuel damper/regulator at the back of the fuel rail, port side of engine. There should be no fuel present in the line
That damper can fail and cause an overfueling/rich condition at idle. It will be evident by checking for fouled spark plugs
If this is...
The original cone clutch in your drive is NLA from mercury. No doubt you've received the newer style
Unfortunately that clutch will not work with the original gearset and drivshaft in your housing. You have to order a complete new gearset, driveshaft, bearings, thrust washers and shim/races. It...
The bearing pack/u joint assy is reassembled and the nut is torqued based on the rolling torque of the bearing assy. Used bearings are 3-7 lb/in, you need a rolling torque wrench for this
Also, the retainer is torqued using the removal/install tool with a torque wrench set to a spec based on...
VesselView/Smartcraft is a fairly sound monitoring system and with two instances in as many or a few more outings I would tend to agree with the system
First hand verification of the questionable output with a voltmeter is of course the only option for confirmation
I ground down a few sockets over the years, then I was introduced to a snap on brand sleeve socket that solved the issue of spark plug installation breakage issues when dealing with angled plug placement/manifold interference
That tool, along with a few others and a general attitude regarding...
There should be two grey wires connected to the (-) side of the coil
One for the tachometer signal and one for the module
The one for the module provides the "pulse" to let the coil fire. It basically takes the place of the ground wire in a conventional (points) ignition
Without the grey wire...
Well, the internet warriors have lined up here so I'll add this:
Scott is absolutely, 100% correct in suggesting OP needs a complete new steering system from helm to motor. Often times, with a locked up cable/helm one will find the steering system is far older than its serviceable life and does...
Yes
You can relocate the cable end for the controller in a different hole location. Based on the video there are a few options
Try for one that allows for 3" of travel. You may then need to make further adjustments at the shift plate assy on the engine
