FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
In Other News . . .
You will notice a few enchancements to the forums to make your experience better. These include: Email Notifications, Thread Previews, Thread Starter Notation, and Emoji Options on the 'Like' icon. . .
Additionally, the merchant portions of the website have been updated and are now operational. . . . Check out iBoats for all your boating gear.
I did put it in the lake and take it for a ride. The crack produced a lot of water so not much riding. It stayed a-float and the outdrive appeared to operate well. Since I pull the outdrive to change the motor I am replacing the water pump, gimble, bellows, and u-joint while in there. Trying to...
So I went through MABBCO for the long block. I did a HP marine camshaft, Double row timing set, high volume oil pump, new valve springs for the camshaft, roller lifters, and flat top pistons.
I stayed with the standard 5.7 non vortec heads. The gentlemen from the engine place said I would be around 300HP. So the current fuel delivery should work?
I stayed with the standard 5.7 non vortec heads. The gentlemen from the engine place said I would be around 300HP. So the current fuel delivery should work?
I just bought a 1994 Chaparral 1930 SST with a Mercruiser/GM 305. When I bought the boat the current owner explained that the boat was winterized and the engine block still cracked. Upon looking at it it is more than a "crack" I have since purchased a long block to replace it. The company I...