She's aligned, back together, and holding 10psi.
Before I reattach to the boat, is there a way to check to see if the shift mechanism is working properly?
Yes. Set rolling torque with dial meter to appropriate range for reusing bearings.
Can't get it inserted as far as the threads on the retaining ring. Can only get to o-ring. Then it seems to stick. I've got pretty good visibility from behind. I don't have tool for removing fork.
The u-joint assembly does not want to go in all the way. I can get it to about 1/2 inch of the ring but it doesn't want to go beyond that point. Had a difficult time removing it also. Any tips on getting the u-joint assembly back in all the way?
I've got good visibility to timing marks from both the drive shaft side and the stern end. I think it will work without removing fork. Does 2-4-C replace special lubricant 101?
I tried my 3/8 6-sided socket on the rear drive shaft housing cover so I could align the shift but it doesn't fit. Are the bolt heads a different size?
The new washer and nut arrived. I was expecting the washer to be slightly concave with a "NUT" marking on one side but the new one is flat. The video I saw indicated it covered Bravo but maybe the concave washer doesn't apply to Bravo 3?
I realized I need a new washer (and nut, maybe) before preloading.
Question - When I align the clutch gear timing marks, do I need any special tools? Like the "Shift handle tool"?
Reseated the assembly and was able to remove it without heating! Thx. One of the races is slightly burnished - and there is some rust on the spliced end into the engine - are these concerns?
