So, I've taken a short break from troubleshooting my new salvage engine.
I may have a bad manifold, so have been on the lookout for one on Craigslist
and OfferUp, just in case. I am going to "acetone test" when I finish all the
"get ready for winter and rain" chores (I'm in the Pacific...
I think this may be a separate issue, but I didn't quite
understand the cooling configuration, so it may be related to my "water in oil".
This replacement engine for my "cracked block" motor is from a salvager. The replacement engine has a strange cooling setup that "achris" identified as a...
Thanks for the input, captain mike! I would rather have a cracked riser than manifold - new ones are a lot cheaper! Sounds like there are lots of possibilities, especially not really knowing the history of the "new" engine or "old" one. I'll just try to be as methodical as I can. I'm trying...
Didn't hear any air escaping or see any bubbles around the block or head, so I redid all the test setup connections. Sure enough, my setup was at fault. After using teflon paste on my threaded connections and tightening a little more, I pressurized to 16 psi. Less than 1 psi leak down after 4...
Yippee! Thanks, everyone. Yes, I'm sure it was actually sheared off. I figured the wall was very close to the end of the plug, so I was very careful. The bottom part of the plug did pretty much fall apart. I used just a bit of heat from a #4 welding tip (not a rosebud) to loosen it up...
Yes, since the plug was "stuck", I'm afraid of the dreaded "broken extractor". It seems like it's easy to "over torque" the little parts if not really careful,
I couldn't tell that the plug was shearing!
If I have to "drill and re-tap", I guess I would have to go to 3/8 npt? Or do you mean try...
So, I was removing the 1/4-20 plug on the engine block (250 inline 6) to drain water from the block. I thought the plug was backing out, but then I noticed that it has sheared off
about 3/4 of the way in. The top 3/4 of the plug came out fine, but the bottom 1/4 is still
in the block. I am...
Making progress on pressure test. I found 3 gross leaks on the input/out to the water circulation pump, and on the cap for the circulation pump. Got 15 psi in the system but it leaked down 10 psi in about 15 minutes. I found another gross leak on the raw water input line to the thermostat...
Okay, I think I got all the necessary plumbing parts and got things connected correctly to pressure test the block. Put 15 psi into the tee and noticed quite a bit of water leaking. Looks like the first thing to do is to clean the hose connections at the circulating pump and eliminate those...
Thanks, Scott. I see what you are saying now. I was confused...
If I had the head and manifold in the loop, there wouldn't be anywhere for air to leak because i would be pressurizing both sides - doh...
Still not quite visualizing the elbow/manifold procedure. I'll work on the
block test...
Ah, okay I have a better idea. I found a 1/8 plug at the bottom of the manifold - so I removed it to drain the water. There is also a plug in the block- so I'll drain that also. Seems like the easier way to pressure test is to connect to the 1/8 hole on the manifold and just block the raw water...
Pressure test sounds good. So the rubber connector from the riser elbow is pretty big. I have a bunch of PVC pipe, so maybe I can get the other end of the riser elbow rubber onto a piece of PVC and then tee the inlet water hose onto the PVC. Then get a gauge and air line into the PVC pipe...
