Recent content by Jeff J

Yep, I have found stuff like that too. There is absolutely no way to know what is inside the hub without disassembling it. IMO, Waiting for a bearing to make noise is like waiting for the oil pressure idiot light to tell you to put oil in the engine.

I agree with this to some extent but I have replaced way more bearings because they sat idle and lines of corrosion formed between the race and the roller than I have bearings that were worn out or covered with corrosion. What I choose to replace is dependent upon what I can catch with a...

I used to do mine yearly but I was putting a lot of miles on my boat trailer and dunking it nearly every weekend (500 mile commute to work). I had a new axle with a grease zerk in it fail in less than a year so I quit using a grease gun and stepped up my servicing. I also frequently feel my hubs...

I hate to ask but are you sure the water line got connected to the lower unit properly or that the seals were installed for that connection?

You might test or bypass the lanyard switch. We had a similar problem on a Suzuki. Everything “looked” okay but there was a problem with that switch.

I missed the overcharge. Could there be an overcharge protection shutting the system down? I know such systems exist but am ignorant as to how they work.

I had a homebuilt airplane that would lose electrical power about 15 minutes into flight. A little while later it would come back then repeat. Finally traced it to a bad solder connection that would lose contact when heated and reconnected once cooled. I have seen similar problems in electronics...

It sounds like a company on the brink of bankruptcy or closing. Quality drops to save money followed by poor customer service because there isn’t money to handle claims.

Dragging chains causes them to wear. A “buddy” borrowed my dovetail and allowed the chains to drag the entire trip. I had to cut out 3 links and splice with a cheater link. It isn’t difficult to remove slack when hooking up a trailer. Just twist the chain a little. Same guy lost the lynch pins...

Some depends on the desired result. Cutting the tube and welding a flush patch looks best but most patches I have seen are just welded over the damaged area. I’ve seen patches welded over both dents and holes. New, undamaged look equals new tube. The last time I priced a side tube for a tri it...

10K behind an F150? They must have really upped the limit on the newer trucks. Mine legally caps out about 7500 pounds.

Sorry, I didn’t catch how shallow that rig is setup to run or that the transducer would pretty much be in line with the prop hub. My thinking above was along the lines of a motor mounted at a more traditional height. That is one heck of an anti-cav plate on the motor but I don’t know if it can...

I have never seen a transducer mounted in front of the motor as proposed. I don’t see a problem with doing it unless the lower unit can interfere with getting an accurate depth but it could be trimmed to be out of the way if needed when idling around.

He doesn’t have a through the hull transducer nor does he wish to install one. His question was about mounting a transducer between the hull and the motor. So, no, you certainly did not answer his question.

I agree. You will want someone very proficient welding aluminum. I can weld a lot of stuff and have welded aluminum but I would not attempt a repair on a tube because my success rate with aluminum is about 50%. Ask your local boat dealer/repair shop if they have someone they use. That’s how I...