got a free motor from a friend he said he couldn’t start it. I got it running with some fresh gas, but doesn’t run good. I noticed it had brand new looking spark plugs, I checked them and the top was powdery white (lean) and bottom was completely clean (not firing). Anyway ur has extremely good...
I put my 3hp Yachtwin back together today, and timed the ignition with a multimeter. The spark is bright blue/purple and snapping. Took a bunch of pulls (6) to start it at first as the bowl was empty and it was at an angle but once it ran for a bit it could start first pull. It’s 36 degrees out...
I have some valvoline multi purpose 2 stroke oil laying around, says rated at tcw3. Is this an ok oil to use it says it can be used in air cooled engines as well. Is this an advanced formula or does it just do a crappy job for both types? The other option I was considering was evinrude/Johnson...
Was checking a fuel issue on a 2 stroke OMC outboard and I was making sure reed valves weren’t sticking. I gently pushed them open with the tip of a screw driver is it possible to bend them by doing this? I was very gentle while doing it
My motor is missing the lower cowls/cover and I’d like to get the 2 halves to quiet it down and make it look better. I found some from a 1958 lightwin, would they work on a 1964 Yachtwin? Both 3hp btw
ive been reading articles about how the timing advance works but nobody seems to actually explain it. They all say just trust me, personally I like to know how things work. So how does the throttle position not affect timing when setting points, but somehow it gets advanced somehow? Also how...
****Lubing autocorrect got me and it won’t let me change it
Does this need to be done? I cleaned off all the old grease last year and never put any more on. Since the only friction is when I turn the throttle it shouldn’t hurt anything right? I don’t really want to have to take EVERYTHING back...
sorry to take over the forum I have a lot of questions. This should be the last one for a while... so apparently I’ve been committing a lot of the “no-no’s” of workin on boats. When I removed my flywheel nut I used an impact gun. I used the correct harmonic balancer puller but I used my impact...
2 years ago I remember ripping off the dried out felt piece and throwing it away (didn’t know what it was for stupid I know). I have no clue where the Oiler guide clip went to though. The replacement part is like $30 new and like $15 used. Any way I could make my own it doesn’t seem too complicated?
I’m swapping all the “guts” out of my old bent and broken prop onto a new one. The little black plastic tophat piece has a chunk missing... is this a problem. Also do I have to grease the rubber insert that goes inside the prop?? Thanks in advance
I ran the motor in a barrel for 10 minutes or so at about 1/4 to half throttle. The engine did not seem to be racing or “screaming” and sounded ok. It was pumping water and didn’t overhead. I read that running with no prop is bad. Did I hurt anything?
Ok so I’m having a weird problem with my 3hp 1964 evinrude... it’s got spark now
(Cleaned and adjusted points), new head gasket, and carb cleaned and rebuild but I’m having an issue. If I dump fuel in the carb it starts up and revs then dies. If I try and start it normally it won’t run for...
My coils are almost touching the condensers in the magneto, is this a problem? Can the spark like jump though that gap or something? Super dumb question I know
I want to take off my armature plate to clean the dirt off the motor and fix the bent throttle lever. Is there a certain adjustment that the plate is set at? I dont want to screw up timing or anything.
Not sure what size I need. I have the small ones that bolt the thin metal cover on for reference but I’d like some numbers too. I know grade 8 but that’s about it. Also I heard somewhere 1/4” and 20 threads per inch but that may be for a different motor. I couldn’t find it for a 3hp like mine on...
