I still choose to put -73 C (-100 F) stuff in my block. I don't like taking any chances with how cold it gets where I live. I like the peace of mind. If you feel comfortable with the -50 stuff then by all means can use it.
Yes it might seem silly to just drain it out afterwards after...
There would I assume be some slight moisture during the fall and spring when it's cycling between frozen hoth temperatures and springtime. But it evaporates or escape through the openings. I have been winterizing mine this way for a couple of years. Air doesn't freeze as many have said before on...
A better question is: I assume you are running in fresh water (being from Ontario myself). If that is the case I would drain the block, put the plugs back into the block run antifreeze through it then drain the antifreeze out and leave the block drain plugs out. I regularly see weeks of -40s...
On my omc cobra it still has a metal aluminum plate that's riveted onto the stern drive. Start with looking for that. It's about 2"x1".
You will need some specialized tools to take it apart but it is doable.
A note about replacing the oil in the outdrive it needs to be done in a specific way (different then any other gearcase oil replacement). Without my manual I can't remember how. It's not something to play around with as if done incorrectly can trap air inside and burn up the outdrive.
As far as the outdrive goes drain the oil and pressure test (and vaccum) replace oil if the passes tests. Grease the zerk fittings on the ujoints and the transom mount. Inspect the bellows (the ujoints bellows being the most important) replace it if it's cracked. Check the u joints bearing in...
I just changed mine this spring. You will need to take off the stern drive to change it. You won't have to remove the engine to change it however you will curse the whole time you do it. You will be laying on top of the engine basically. Although it does look like you have more room to the left...
Veryify what Bondo stated and then depending on how long it has been sitting since last start might need to get your starter adjustment tool out and give it a few taps (hit it with a hammer or a rubber mallet half a dozen times).
Not sure how to tell if it's cupped. The subtle between props is unknown to me at the moment. First time I've owned a bigger motor besides 25hp 2stroker. I could take a picture of it along with pulling up the old model numbers. The stainless steel one I put on was indeed a omc prop.
I never...
No offense was taken. The 18" inch pitch should bring it closer to the higher end of the rpms. Why I was wondering about only ever seeing them on odd numbers. I will be looking at either 18 or 19.
Tachometer is correct. I've been testing on the same day a few hours a part from each other. Compared the tach on the dash with a digital timing light.
My boat as you would expect with a stern drive is a fiberglass deep v hull. It's heavy haven't weight it yet (donzi ragazza 19'). It's got a...
By math that is correct as well. Just didn't know about the diameter change and the over all design of a old prop versus something newer? Not even sure if they would be all that different in there designs that would impact the rpms.
