Thread is a little old but I'll go ahead throw in what I know. The 2 most expensive things you will need will be the starter and then a toothed flywheel. I have had two early 90s model 25's like yours - one e-start and the other manual - and both had toothed flywheels. I have a couple of manual...
If I understand you right, then I don't believe what you are doing is actually changing anything. As long as the barrel nut is engaged to the threads on each shift rod it doesnt matter the position up/down. All that's happening is the barrel nut is moving while both shift rods are staying in...
I guess I am still a little confused then. When you say adjusted the barrel nut all the way up to all the way down what does that mean exactly? Sounds like either the entire shift linkage is skewed in the forward position or you have worn clutch dogs or worn shift cam.
The long barrel nut should be paired with a regular sized jam nut to lock it in place. If the jam nut is missing I would probably assume whoever put it back on previously didn't do it right. I couldn't tell you the jam nut size offhand but I think it takes a 10mm wrench. If you take the barrel...
It's definitely not adjusted right. If I remember right those are push/pull to shift type and you have to shift those into reverse in order to be able to access the barrel nut connecting the motor side and gearcase side linkages. This also means they both need to be fully engaged into reverse...
I have a fully disassembled Yamaha 25hp motor I am about to dive into rebuilding. I bought it as part of a parts lot which primarily included motors with "bad crankshafts". The man I bought them from had bought the parts lot himself and really never got to working on them so it's kind of second...
Thank you for the reply. I'll take your advice and throw some oil in the cylinders to make sure everything gets coated.
Since it fired right up I think I'll go ahead with a carb clean to clean up the low speed orifices and jet and then move on and do a water pump kit and then drain, pressure...
The nighttime check sounds like a good idea. I'll definitely give that a try.
Will probably be a while before we are able to go for another test run so may be a while before I update it but definitely will let yall know how it goes.
A friend was given (or maybe "borrowed") a 1989 Yamaha 8hp, model 8SF, from a coworker of his for his teenage son to use on his jon boat. I told them to bring it over and I'd help them go over it and see if its a runner after sitting in the guys shop for years. I think the story was the guy my...
Thanks so much! I'll check for that build date asap.
So from an electronics perspective, what all could I potentially swap over?
swap the stator from the newer motor to this older one as long as I also swapped the dual rect/regs?
swap the trigger?
swap out CDI boxes?
swap coils?
We will...
No, that's still very informative information. Maybe will come in handy once I get this one back going. Can compare performance numbers to what you stated here.
That serial number is off of the transom bracket so I guess that is a bad one to go by. I need to find the one on the powerhead itself. I looked on the top and there is one welch plug and another spot where it looks like one is missing. The present one has the numbers " 6568786" so it doesn't...
Swapping the two reg/rec and stator seems like a good idea then. If I read the manual right, that newer stator is a 40amp one too.
Also, I was unaware they were different displacement blocks. What all models did they build off the 2.4l block? 150, 175, and 200? Is the difference the carbs...
Yeah it idles about perfect. Punch the throttle down all the way and it goes up smooth and quickly to about 3000 rpms and just hits a wall. Boat nose just lifts up and stern plows water. Engine, despite not going up in revs, sounds smooth and there is no miss, hesitation, surging, etc.
