Don't know about that model era but it may be/probably is related to the 2000+ year models. I had a 2002 90 3 cyl. and a 2002 115 4 cyl. and they seemed to be the same except for the extra cylinder extension making the cowling taller. The OEM service manual showed reference to the 75 (Jet) all...
Yea Jimmbo we both know that if its cupped, besides the progressive pitch, you can just look at the blade and clearly see the tip of the blades are bent up slightly....I say slightly as I read prop design literature explain that the amount of cup depends on the total prop design and you can have...
I had several of them when they were popular....1970-80's. It's a trim-hull and I didn't like mine especially for Sunday trips after church with the family aboard. But at the time that was all that was available where I boated and shopped, other than an open aluminum Skiff/John type boat...
I guess I missed something over the years. Other than Turning Point Hustler aluminum prop mfgr. the only cupped props of which I was aware were "most" SS props.
My experience with cupping is better bite at high trim angles and in sharper turns it helps to prevent "prop ventilation"......the...
.....and the peak of the torque curve is usually much lower than the max RPM point.....at least that's the way it is on 4 stroke diesels and gassers....one of the things that I always found interesting is that OEM outboard mfgrs. never posted their engine torque curves......except for one...
It's a "Moment of Inertia" thing......Foot-Pounds. You have the pounds in the items lifting capabilities which is constant but when you add "feet" to the equation it becomes more effective! Its like sliding a pipe over the handle of a wrench trying to turn a nut that won't budge!
Plus seals on screws removed when changing LU lube as a potential culprit. If soapy water doesn't show anything, get a tub of water and with the LU pressurized as stated..like 10 PSI, submerge the LU and put it in different positions while submerged. Some seals are bi-directional....lip one...
Exactly. I rescued an 18' Starcraft Holiday with a Merc. I/O that had been badly abused. When I got the outdrive apart, the rear of forward gear and front of the clutch dog were just like Chris said. The problem with that is that there isn't enough material in the right dimension to stay...
I can't believe this conversation from 2012 appeared today but it did. For what it's worth, the "rig" posted in my pictures was the boat I was running when I snapped the picture in my Avatar......back then.
I agree on looks and later on in my boating years, I liked the shiny SS props on my black Mercuries. I guess seeing the shiny prop, in my mind, spelled "performance" whereas the OEM black aluminum just reflected "so-so" performance....so the TPs didn't last very long and wound up sitting on the...
The idle screw (low speed ratio adjustment) is set ok at the normal recommended starting point. The spraying premix into the Venturi and no response is confusing.....tends to move the suspected problem from a dirty carb. as the source of the problem.
The starting with fuel sprayed in the...
My only reason for a YES answer would be if you do a lot of shallow water running. With that pictured addition, I'd expect your other performance would probably be hampered.....but with the rig as stated, it isn't going anywhere very fast and that would mitigate any "new water flow into the...
