I have to comment on your inclusion of this comment in your postings:
What’s behind you doesn’t matter. – Enzo Ferrari Well it does especially if you are in a race and it's overtaking you! I think the world knew/knows what Enzo did for a living!
"Would you glass in the reinforcement from underneath?" That ought to work and if there is room, install "ribs" of some sort to get some height prior to installing the glass mat. Height in the "deflection" equation goes up as the cube of the parameters, making it your most effective dimension.
Corrosion on contacts (the actual contact surfaces) cause resistance. Current flowing through resistance causes heat....amount of heat equals current squared X resistance in Ohms. If that's the problem, the heat will excite the sensor in the breaker till it's hot enough to simulate a current...
Probably, being over the tank, and being a cover probably some flexing would be assumed as there probably isn't much reinforcing. The question I would ask myself would be: Does it matter if it caves in a little under weight? Probably not. Maybe you would stand on the cover and bend your knees...
The fiberglass mat is surely covering wood stringers. If the resin has completely sealed the stringer when the mat was installed and hasn't been damaged, then I'd say you are good to go. As Scott mentioned a few inspection holes wouldn't hurt......ensure you seal them up good when finished...
I've thought about that subject numerous times. My thoughts were that you had a fixed gear train with some % of "slip" in the system with the propeller to water interface......varies as the relationships to hull performance are setup and where you are on the "planed out" curve.....just getting...
Money is nothing more than "a means to an end". Once you spend it, it's gone forever......what you have left is what you did with it.....if you are happy with the result, you have that comfort every time you bring up the subject.
I realize that you have to have the money to spend it but if its...
What do you mean "the whole piece"? Looks to me like he has outlined as much of the transom covering as he can. If the knees are questionable, and for 10 HP I'd really doubt that, then just add additional knees.
The idea of the 1/4" sheet scab is to eliminate further heat entirely and to replace the original transom strength aluminum with the scab (bolted) on replacement. With the original aluminum loosing its strength, bolting the scab on ought to be a no brainer as the variations in the original...
Am I correct in assuming that there is an aluminum cap that goes over the parts shown in your last picture? If it were mine I'd force the cap in place and bolt everything together as tight as it would let you.
First I'm not a metallurgist! So in thinking I would consult one (of sorts) I did...
That is not the hull my boat had. It was the heavier, modified deep V with hard chines. The hull pictured isn't a modified deep V nor does it have lifting reverse chines.
It's on there for an unexpected current surge. If that happens the internal circuit breaker opens. As alldodge said, the button is to reset it. Before you go to a lot of trouble push it and see if it resets. If so, fine. If not one of 2 reasons: Broken internal switch, or continuous...
