I have just replaced both shaft seals on my E150EXERV. When I pressed the first seal into the carrier I pushed it in possibly too far, but not yet touching the bearing. The outer seal was flush with the carrier and when I pressed the second seal in there is about 1/8 inch gap between the two...
I think I said in my OP that I had pressure tested good, but not vacuum tested. That's why the confusion -- shouldn't be water according to the test but yet it appears there is.
I already pulled the bearing carrier and have replaced the seals just to be sure. Yes I'm going back to the expensive blue stuff when I fill up. It's better oil anyway and I'm used to the way it looks when used. I had used just 80w90 gear oil until I could determine if and where it was...
Roger, bent shaft affirmative. The oil had sat in the boat for a week, then I idled maybe a 1/4 mile, pulled it onto a trailer. I don't think idling could mix 90wt oil that thoroughly, but I'm treating this as if water was in the oil. I still don't understand why I need to do a compression...
I figured. Any idea where it could be coming from? My understanding is that there are only two places, the water pump seal and the shaft seals, right? A water pump servicing is needed anyway, maybe I should just replace 'em all.
I normally use Mercury or Yamaha lower unit oil which is dyed blue. When I drain it after a season of use it is normally pretty dark and no signs of water. Recently I hit something hard, destroyed a stainless prop. The shaft still looks straight, but I decided to drain the oil anyway. There...
I think the consensus here is that I'm cheap. I am. But I don't like to buy stuff I'm not going to use. I've spent over $1500 on this old motor just since Fall so I'll hit the hip when I have to. I was already resigned to the fact that I needed to buy a whole set of rings, but buying the...
And they shouldn't because I can buy an assortment of 13 sizes for the price of a single snap ring from BRP. It's the principal. Anyway I've moved on. Re-used two of them.
I've replaced my trim motor and to get to it on my motor the trim rod must be removed at a minimum. I've read about this and it seems most of them get stuck after years of use. The consensus seems to be heat/beat with brass punch, penetrating oil, repeat, for days if necessary. I thought I'd...
I'm preparing to replace the trim/tilt motor on my 150 E150EXERV '96. The manual says I need to remove the trim rods etc. I have the old retaining clips out and managed to drop one and lose it somewhere, and I think it's a good idea to just replace all of them anyway as long as I have it...
I have my boat and motor pretty much overhauled and today I went to run the motor on the muffs and in the process discovered the trim motor wasn't responding. The motor was tilted up at the time. I found the wires to the trim motor to have been crushed somehow between the motor mounts. I...
Thanks, I've seen this. It's about the best explanation I've seen of what happens "under the hood," however nothing I've read adequately explains how the no oil circuit actually works. I know that oil is injected each time the pin pushes the button down, but I had to figure that out myself...