1998 evinrude 225 ocean pro, no spark! Help!

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island-flsher

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So im hoping to get some help or some insight, I have a 1998 evinrude 225 oceanpro that has a no spark issue, I had it into a shop for the problem
They replaced the stator and confirm the stator and trigger was good but said I wasent getting power out of the power pack(CDI) to the coils, I had another power pack I brought in for them to try im honestly not sure they tried it but they said they did and still no power out of the power pack, I had to pull it from the shop after three months because I had family flying in to go fishing last August, so im tackling it myself now, do you guys have any good suggestions to help me figure this out, what other issues should I look for
 
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Chris1956

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You might get a factory service manual. marineengine used to carry them. Have your model number on hand. Do you have the optical sensor ignition? Are your coils in spec? This info and more would be in the service manual.

On my '98 Johnny 150HP engine, battery power is supplied to the powerpack when cranking the engine, to help it make enough spark to fire. You might see if your engine has that feature and if it works.
 
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island-flsher

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17378421617552220677527186863782.jpg17378422558993713199959132116874.jpg
This is what the shop had done, i should have posted this before, and I don't believe it has optical ignition, im honestly pretty green to all this stuff
 
dingbat

dingbat

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island-flsher said:
This is my fly wheel I think the outer and inner magnets look good?
View attachment 405179
Click to expand...
I’ve owned the 1997 model year of your motor since new.

First thing you do is to buy a factory service manual. Then follow the troubleshooting decision tree step by step for no spark.

Circuits involved… stop, shift switch, diode, charge coil, sensor coil and power pack. Manual contains detailed, step by step procedures for each component.

Problem with flywheel causes erratic spark. It does not cause a no spark condition

Charge coil (stator) output per manual should be 130 VDC or higher. Less than 130 VDC -check condition of wiring and connectors

Sense coil (trigger) per manual should be 0.2 VDC or higher. Less than 0.2 VDC - check condition of wiring and connectors

Both these test failed according to the readings posted above

This motor has Quick Start. Does the motor count down the lights, then beep when you first turn the key?
 
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racerone

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Take starter motor apart for inspection.----Have battery load tested.----Inspect battery cables and connections.
 
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island-flsher

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The shop told me the trigger output was good but maybe it's not, I took it off and did a resistance test on it and it was within the specs aswell, the stator is brand new aswell
It did have quick start im onw to work on it again today, I will try quick start to see if the lights are counting down and the beep
 
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island-flsher

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dingbat said:
I’ve owned the 1997 model year of your motor since new.

First thing you do is to buy a factory service manual. Then follow the troubleshooting decision tree step by step for no spark.

Circuits involved… stop, shift switch, diode, charge coil, sensor coil and power pack. Manual contains detailed, step by step procedures for each component.

Problem with flywheel causes erratic spark. It does not cause a no spark condition

Charge coil (stator) output per manual should be 130 VDC or higher. Less than 130 VDC -check condition of wiring and connectors

Sense coil (trigger) per manual should be 0.2 VDC or higher. Less than 0.2 VDC - check condition of wiring and connectors

Both these test failed according to the readings posted above

This motor has Quick Start. Does the motor count down the lights, then beep when you first turn the key?
Click to expand...
The shop told me the trigger output was good but maybe it's not, I took it off and did a resistance test on it and it was within the specs aswell, the stator is brand new aswell
It did have quick start im onw to work on it again today, I will try quick start to see if the lights are counting down and the beep

Reply
 
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Crosbyman

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see post 9 the CDI document does emphasize the need for a strong battery, good connections and a starter strong enough to spin the engine at needed RPMs .
 
ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

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what shop spends the time to grind an impact socket so it will fit, vs just using a regular non-tapered socket? system needs to crank 250rpm minimum to do a proper DVA cranking test. also not sure what he means by "no voltage at high tension"... well yea gotta load test the power pack!
 
dingbat

dingbat

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island-flsher said:
The shop told me the trigger output was good but maybe it's not, I took it off and did a resistance test on it and it was within the specs aswell, the stator is brand new aswell
Click to expand...
Resistance tests are short cuts. Used to quickly eliminate obviously failed components.

Never assume….load testing is the only way to determine if a component has actually failed or not.

As I noted above, those numbers are not in specification. Not saying the components are bad, just that something isn’t right in that circuit. Could be a bad wire in the harness, but you’ll never find it without the step by step procedures in the manual.

Per the manual, if both components test good as you say…..replace the power pack.
 
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island-flsher

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dingbat said:
Resistance tests are short cuts. Used to quickly eliminate obviously failed components.

Never assume….load testing is the only way to determine if a component has actually failed or not.

As I noted above, those numbers are not in specification. Not saying the components are bad, just that something isn’t right in that circuit. Could be a bad wire in the harness, but you’ll never find it without the step by step procedures in the manual.

Per the manual, if both components test good as you say…..replace the power pack.
Click to expand...
Okay im going to pick up a proper meter and go at it again with the steps this week hopefully, I will report back with my readings, thank you for the help so far everyone
 
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island-flsher

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Well I ended up getting a parts motor and swapped put the timer base and all the spark came back just wanted to let every one know and thank you guys for the help. I'll be out for halibut April 1st
 
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island-flsher

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So I started the motor up, it's running rough backfiring and doesn't want to spit anymore, I got a new impeller for it today.
Tomorrow I'm going to swap the impeller and try to mess with it, It ran good before the spark went out and I had to replace the timer base, so I figured it has to do with that adjustment by the trigger/timer base, just seeing what some more experienced guys think, I'll let you know if I get it running right tomorrow
 
ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

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island-flsher said:
So I started the motor up, it's running rough backfiring and doesn't want to spit anymore, I got a new impeller for it today.
Tomorrow I'm going to swap the impeller and try to mess with it, It ran good before the spark went out and I had to replace the timer base, so I figured it has to do with that adjustment by the trigger/timer base, just seeing what some more experienced guys think, I'll let you know if I get it running right tomorrow
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there is no adjustment of the timer base. if its popping/backfiring you've either got a couple primary terminal leads on the wrong cylinders, or it sheared the flywheel key. did you thoroughly degrease the flywheel and crank tapers and torque to 140-150 ft/lbs w. a new nut??
 
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Arty76

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island-flsher said:
The shop told me the trigger output was good but maybe it's not, I took it off and did a resistance test on it and it was within the specs aswell, the stator is brand new aswell
It did have quick start im onw to work on it again today, I will try quick start to see if the lights are counting down and the beep
Click to expand...
What were the resistance readings you got from timer base?
 
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