No water coming out of the exhaust on muffs

DuKn

Seaman
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
56
x2 on this it takes long enough to just make you worry about water not coming out... 2 min is about right

great problem solved, but you are right to stay on top of it. Watch water flow and oil pressure... never had an engine with both have an issue

And it is normal that you have uneven flow out the idle relief ports unless the trailer is dead level.
Yeah I need to check oil pressure, gauge always pegs out when i start it, oil was clean when i changed it. I have a mechanical pressure gauge i need to check it with.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,023
One thing I like to do for the first start of the season, is hook up the muffs, turn on the water but before firing it up, I disconnect the hose that goes from the transom to the 'stat housing and fill that hose with water and some Dawn dish soap mixed in, that lubes the impeller even before the engine cranks. Re-connect that hose and then fire 'er up.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,722
Yeah I need to check oil pressure, gauge always pegs out when i start it, oil was clean when i changed it. I have a mechanical pressure gauge i need to check it with.
Normal to peg oil gauge when cold, a gauge like that is only an approximation, basically is it in the same neighborhood Vs X pressure. When oil gets hot and under load it will come down.just get used to where is normally is at a quick glance.
if you hook a mechianical gauge up 10 psi per 1000rpm ( hot) is a sign engine is healthy.
 

DuKn

Seaman
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
56
Normal to peg oil gauge when cold, a gauge like that is only an approximation, basically is it in the same neighborhood Vs X pressure. When oil gets hot and under load it will come down.just get used to where is normally is at a quick glance.
if you hook a mechianical gauge up 10 psi per 1000rpm ( hot) is a sign engine is healthy.
hooked the mechanical one up and it was 60-65 psi at idle (tachometer wasn’t working right) running it for around 5 minutes, seems a little high doesn’t it?
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,722
hooked the mechanical one up and it was 60-65 psi at idle (tachometer wasn’t working right) running it for around 5 minutes, seems a little high doesn’t it?
What temp was engine at that point, doubt it was hot on the hose at idle , so no I would not worry
 

DuKn

Seaman
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
56
What temp was engine at that point, doubt it was hot on the hose at idle , so no I would not worry
Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.

New problem is the Starboard manifold is a hot to touch and port is cool, hoping it’s just because i was idling tho.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,722
Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.

New problem is the Starboard manifold is a hot to touch and port is cool, hoping it’s just because i was idling tho.normal That manifolds are different temps. Usually side of trailer that leans down gets a bit more water. As long as it isn’t too hot to touch for a few seconds then you are ok. Is this fresh water or salt water boat? Salt water you have to maintain your exhaust as passages get clogged up, fresh non issue they will last life of boat.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,631
180-185 is too Hot for a Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine. You didn't stick an Automotive Thermostat in it at some point?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,079
Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.

New problem is the Starboard manifold is a hot to touch and port is cool, hoping it’s just because i was idling tho.
Ayuh,...... Is the motor sitting, Dead Level,..??
It matters, especially at idle,....
'n the starboard side usually runs slightly warmer, due to the system flows,....
 

Buster53

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 16, 2022
Messages
113
See post 17 he just needed to wait for block to fill more than 30 seconds . T stat or no it still will take same time to fill
I hear you, but only suggesting this in case there is an issue with the T-stat itself
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,137
I usually use the muffs and it takes a bit to get water to come out. But last year I used the muffs out at my cabin, it seemed ok but when I dumped it in the lake it proceeded to overheat. You guessed it, the water pressure at the cabin is lower than the water pressure at home. Burned up the impeller. How’s your water pressure?
 

DuKn

Seaman
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
56
Ayuh,...... Is the motor sitting, Dead Level,..??
It matters, especially at idle,....
'n the starboard side usually runs slightly warmer, due to the system flows,....
It was not setting level. I’ve read some other threads about this problem and they said that it not being level could cause it to heat up, and another person said it was just when they had it on muffs, when they were at the lake it ran fine.
 

DuKn

Seaman
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
56
I usually use the muffs and it takes a bit to get water to come out. But last year I used the muffs out at my cabin, it seemed ok but when I dumped it in the lake it proceeded to overheat. You guessed it, the water pressure at the cabin is lower than the water pressure at home. Burned up the impeller. How’s your water pressure?
Seems like it has plenty of pressure, water sprays everywhere when i have it on the drive.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,023
I have used both the dual feed ones and the round Merc ones with the metal rod clamp and found the Merc ones much better. They are softer rubber & conform better to the shape of the lower unit. The rubber on the dual feed ones was way too stiff to seal well. The engine ran consistently cooler with the Merc ones.
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
296
I have used both the dual feed ones and the round Merc ones with the metal rod clamp and found the Merc ones much better. They are softer rubber & conform better to the shape of the lower unit. The rubber on the dual feed ones was way too stiff to seal well. The engine ran consistently cooler with the Merc ones.
Hence why I made the switch. They're not terribly expensive and seal a lot better. Sure, having to drill holes kinda stinks, but it's not rocket surgery.
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,137
Hence why I made the switch. They're not terribly expensive and seal a lot better. Sure, having to drill holes kinda stinks, but it's not rocket surgery.
Drill holes? I have the muffs with the rod, Never had to drill holes to use them?
 
Top