Scott06
Admiral
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2014
- Messages
- 6,722
See post 17 he just needed to wait for block to fill more than 30 seconds . T stat or no it still will take same time to fillTake out the T-stat and see what happens.
See post 17 he just needed to wait for block to fill more than 30 seconds . T stat or no it still will take same time to fillTake out the T-stat and see what happens.
Yeah I need to check oil pressure, gauge always pegs out when i start it, oil was clean when i changed it. I have a mechanical pressure gauge i need to check it with.x2 on this it takes long enough to just make you worry about water not coming out... 2 min is about right
great problem solved, but you are right to stay on top of it. Watch water flow and oil pressure... never had an engine with both have an issue
And it is normal that you have uneven flow out the idle relief ports unless the trailer is dead level.
Normal to peg oil gauge when cold, a gauge like that is only an approximation, basically is it in the same neighborhood Vs X pressure. When oil gets hot and under load it will come down.just get used to where is normally is at a quick glance.Yeah I need to check oil pressure, gauge always pegs out when i start it, oil was clean when i changed it. I have a mechanical pressure gauge i need to check it with.
hooked the mechanical one up and it was 60-65 psi at idle (tachometer wasn’t working right) running it for around 5 minutes, seems a little high doesn’t it?Normal to peg oil gauge when cold, a gauge like that is only an approximation, basically is it in the same neighborhood Vs X pressure. When oil gets hot and under load it will come down.just get used to where is normally is at a quick glance.
if you hook a mechianical gauge up 10 psi per 1000rpm ( hot) is a sign engine is healthy.
What temp was engine at that point, doubt it was hot on the hose at idle , so no I would not worryhooked the mechanical one up and it was 60-65 psi at idle (tachometer wasn’t working right) running it for around 5 minutes, seems a little high doesn’t it?
Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.What temp was engine at that point, doubt it was hot on the hose at idle , so no I would not worry
Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.
New problem is the Starboard manifold is a hot to touch and port is cool, hoping it’s just because i was idling tho.normal That manifolds are different temps. Usually side of trailer that leans down gets a bit more water. As long as it isn’t too hot to touch for a few seconds then you are ok. Is this fresh water or salt water boat? Salt water you have to maintain your exhaust as passages get clogged up, fresh non issue they will last life of boat.
Ayuh,...... Is the motor sitting, Dead Level,..??Engine was around 180-185, which i’ve got another problem now but im gonna look through some threads and see if i can pin point the culprit.
New problem is the Starboard manifold is a hot to touch and port is cool, hoping it’s just because i was idling tho.
I hear you, but only suggesting this in case there is an issue with the T-stat itselfSee post 17 he just needed to wait for block to fill more than 30 seconds . T stat or no it still will take same time to fill
No, it’s a 160° thermostat; part number 807252Q5.180-185 is too Hot for a Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine. You didn't stick an Automotive Thermostat in it at some point?
It was not setting level. I’ve read some other threads about this problem and they said that it not being level could cause it to heat up, and another person said it was just when they had it on muffs, when they were at the lake it ran fine.Ayuh,...... Is the motor sitting, Dead Level,..??
It matters, especially at idle,....
'n the starboard side usually runs slightly warmer, due to the system flows,....
Seems like it has plenty of pressure, water sprays everywhere when i have it on the drive.I usually use the muffs and it takes a bit to get water to come out. But last year I used the muffs out at my cabin, it seemed ok but when I dumped it in the lake it proceeded to overheat. You guessed it, the water pressure at the cabin is lower than the water pressure at home. Burned up the impeller. How’s your water pressure?
Hence why I made the switch. They're not terribly expensive and seal a lot better. Sure, having to drill holes kinda stinks, but it's not rocket surgery.I have used both the dual feed ones and the round Merc ones with the metal rod clamp and found the Merc ones much better. They are softer rubber & conform better to the shape of the lower unit. The rubber on the dual feed ones was way too stiff to seal well. The engine ran consistently cooler with the Merc ones.
Drill holes? I have the muffs with the rod, Never had to drill holes to use them?Hence why I made the switch. They're not terribly expensive and seal a lot better. Sure, having to drill holes kinda stinks, but it's not rocket surgery.