1998 evinrude 225 ocean pro help #2!

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island-flsher

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Jan 24, 2025
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15
Hey guys so I got my spark back and the motor is running, but now then problem I'm having is it doesn't want to pee water,
When the boat went down it always had a steady stream but now it will pee for 10nseconds then stop when I first try, after it stops it won't spit again unless I let the motor sit for a few minutes but will only spit for 10 seconds again before stopping.

I changed the impeller but the old one looked fine, I checked my thermostats and they are working, is there anything else to check or is there a good way to try to unclog it, any tips on why this is happening and hkwnto fix it
 
M

Mc Tool

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 7, 2024
Messages
312
Try removing the pee hose from the engine and poke something in there ( bit of wire ) maybe even start motor and jiggle wire to try and flush it out . Im thinking it may just be the pee hose blocked and you may be able to dislodge the impedementia
 
dingbat

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,313
What is the temp of the water?

If the water is too cold, it can take a minute for the water to come up to temp and open the stats.

Having said that, I can't say if that's typical behavior or not when running the motor out of the water. The motor is designed to run off the flushing port. I've never had used muffs on the motor.
 
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island-flsher

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Jan 24, 2025
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Prior to this the motor always pushed good with flush muffs, always a steady stream drilling a hole in the ground, water was cold im thinking about trying to flush with vinegar to try and break any cloggs
 
ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

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Messages
933
island-flsher said:
Prior to this the motor always pushed good with flush muffs, always a steady stream drilling a hole in the ground, water was cold im thinking about trying to flush with vinegar to try and break any cloggs
Click to expand...
NEVER rely on the temp of the water coming out of the indicator! it means absolutely NOTHING other than pump works! each cylinder head has a flat spot on TOP. at idle, what is the temp at each one? 125-155f is what you are looking for. if thats in range, i suspect you simply have a clogged indicator fitting (no hose on these). does water spray out the exhaust reliefs were the water is supposed to come out after its warm? you can simply unscrew the indicator fitting and see if its clogged, and flush it out with a garden hose.
 
dingbat

dingbat

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island-flsher said:
m thinking about trying to flush with vinegar to try and break any cloggs
Click to expand...
Before I went through all that trouble, I'd back flush the system using the flush port using the full pressure of your water supply.
 
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island-flsher

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Jan 24, 2025
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Okay so I back flushed it and I re checked the impeller, all good and flowing, I took the leg off and put a hose onto the intake pipe and was able to get water to pour out the pee hole, so i don't know if it's clogged, I put the leg back on and same thing I start it up it spits and then stops
 
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island-flsher

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Jan 24, 2025
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I was able to run the engine with the leg off and and a hose hooked up to the pickup and water came out while it ran, but it won't pump with the leg on, new impeller and I can't figure out why
 
ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

Ensign
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island-flsher said:
I was able to run the engine with the leg off and and a hose hooked up to the pickup and water came out while it ran, but it won't pump with the leg on, new impeller and I can't figure out why
Click to expand...
are you sure the rubber grommet is in the pump for water tube? the o ring is behind the plate AND underneath the impeller? keyway is in good shape?
 
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island-flsher

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ct1762@gmail.com said:
are you sure the rubber grommet is in the pump for water tube? the o ring is behind the plate AND underneath the impeller? keyway is in good shape?
Click to expand...
It was a whole new kit I installed, and it was also doing this before I even took the leg off that's why I thought timing change the impeller, but it has new housing and new gromet and o rings

Tomorrow im going to try a different leg from a parts motor I have to see if it makes any difference,
 
dingbat

dingbat

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island-flsher said:
It was a whole new kit I installed, and it was also doing this before I even took the leg off that's why I thought timing change the impeller, but it has new housing and new gromet and o rings
Click to expand...
The hose is pushing a whole lot more water than the water pump. 5 psi at idle at best.

Make sure the water tubes isn't rotted thru and that both grommets are in place.
 
ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

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island-flsher said:
New leg didn't change anything, i think the motor is backfiring and spinning backwards
Click to expand...
well the flywheel should always be spinning clockwise no guessing needed! if the gearcase is a counter-rotating one you'd see a "CR" stamped at the very end of the propshaft but flywheel would still spin clockwise. if its popping thats something different and would either be a sheared flywheel key (most common), loose or broken/missing flywheel magnets (easy to check w. flywheel on) or primary terminal leads mixed up. if its more of a lean sneeze, make sure carb butterflys are 100% closed at idle, and no air leaks.
 
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Arty76

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ct1762@gmail.com said:
well the flywheel should always be spinning clockwise no guessing needed! if the gearcase is a counter-rotating one you'd see a "CR" stamped at the very end of the propshaft but flywheel would still spin clockwise. if its popping thats something different and would either be a sheared flywheel key (most common), loose or broken/missing flywheel magnets (easy to check w. flywheel on) or primary terminal leads mixed up. if its more of a lean sneeze, make sure carb butterflys are 100% closed at idle, and no air leaks.
Click to expand...
The loose magnets you're talking about are the ones that go around the stator, or the timer base magnet? Is the timer base magnet oriented in a specific way? Could it be loose and maybe slip, causing timing/no spark issues?
 
dingbat

dingbat

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Arty76 said:
The loose magnets you're talking about are the ones that go around the stator, or the timer base magnet? Is the timer base magnet oriented in a specific way? Could it be loose and maybe slip, causing timing/no spark issues?
Click to expand...
Loose magnets cause a miss.

The total lack of spark is a power pack, sense coil, stator, or wiring
 
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Arty76

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dingbat said:
Loose magnets cause a miss.

The total lack of spark is a power pack, sense coil, stator, or wiring
Click to expand...
My stator is new, I'm questioning the timer base and power pack, I've tried two other timer bases, besides my original, I tested resistance on all three and got very similar ohm readings, which seem low but they're consistent, the one I have on there checks good on voltage output( .5 - .8 volts on dva), I need to figure out how to check the output of the power pack correctly.
 
dingbat

dingbat

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Arty76 said:
My stator is new, I'm questioning the timer base and power pack, I've tried two other timer bases, besides my original, I tested resistance on all three and got very similar ohm readings, which seem low but they're consistent, the one I have on there checks good on voltage output( .5 - .8 volts on dva), I need to figure out how to check the output of the power pack correctly.
Click to expand...
 

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ct1762@gmail.com

ct1762@gmail.com

Ensign
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Messages
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yes a simple 10w 10 ohm resistor is easy and dirt cheap to find on amazon. they are used for headlights on mopeds and such. test primary coil output by simply piercing the primary terminal boot at each ignition coil. write down voltage. then do the same but with above resistor. if the numbers are lower than the manual says, replace that part. no guessing required here.
 
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