Is this water hookup for winterizing or for running out of the water?

kd4pbs said:

I use mine to run out of the water. Water will also exit the drive inlet when using this, since there is no check valve to keep that from happening. Basically, as long as you're at idle or thereabouts, there's enough water being sucked into the cooling system to make this work for running out of the water, as long as the raw water pump is good.
First, use compressed air or a leaf blower to blow into that hose. This will force any water that's in the loop coming from the outdrive out through the drive inlet. Next, drain the block, manifolds and risers by removing all drain plugs. Be sure to poke into the drain holes to ensure no sediment or rust particles is clogging the holes. I usually keep the drain plugs out for the winter. Remove the hose which goes from the raw water pump to the thermostat housing and drain all water from the hose. Remove the large hose which connects the water pump inlet to the thermostat housing outlet from the thermostat housing, and drain the water. Use a funnel to pour a few quarts into that hose in your picture, then crank the engine for a few seconds to suck antifreeze into the raw water pump. This will draw antifreeze into the remaining places that water may have remained, keeping you safe for the winter.
It's a good idea to also remove the spark plugs and spray in some fogging oil, then replace the spark plugs.

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ESGWheel said:

Not all VPs have this blue cap flushing connection where you can run on a hose directly to it (no muffs) if you stay at idle or slightly above. I mention this so as you do inadvertently advise others about “ok to run” on a flushing connection. Here is a document I put together based on another thread and posts fm MUC to highlight the differences. Note: I just assumed all VPs had this so was news to me as well.

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ESGWheel said:

Overkill. I have run for multiple hours over the years on the blue cap alone, no issue. Again, cannot run up to 2500 RPM and let it sit there... can burp it to 2500 or more but only a burp.

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ESGWheel said:

It’s typical when flushing at idle. Reason: motors really start generating heat under load, not idle. Unlike a close loop car system, the motor is getting a constant flush of probably 50 to 60 degree water (yes, I know not in the jacket but there is still a bleed into it). For my 5.0 I only get to operating temp on the hose after 30 minutes or so.

A good idea to get an IR Gun like this link. Use it to check manifolds, etc. Idea is after boating to your destination, so is fully warmed up, pop the hood and check various areas and record for future reference. Search around on this forum and you will find folk’s temps they typically see as a reference.

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