2012 3.0L TKS runs great with muffs, but slow on lake...

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,925
I was looking around for a tool called a spark gap gauge and I was unable to locate one. Do you have a make and model of one? All that came back were gap measuring tools or feeler gauges for spark plugs. I had a spark indicator tool that I ran when the problem was noticed, but that just indicated that there was spark going to each plug/cylinder. Would it be worthwhile to just replace the ignition coil at this point? Thank you.
Most all auto supply stores carry an adjustable gap jumping tool, usually less than 10 bucks. You can adjust the distance where the spark jumps to see how strong the spark is. Why replace parts until you know it is bad ?
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,925
Yes, I did this test back over a month ago and it passed. Service manual had me also disconnect the shift interrupt wires and join the engine harness wires together for this test, in addition.
I made my own jumper wires out of OFC copper braided cable. The ignition timing was dead on 2 degrees ATDC, so I did not advance nor retard the distributor cap. Jumper wires removed, timing light removed, shift interrupt wires reconnected. Serial # is 2A035661 : Family: CM9XM03.02VC. Thanks and still stumped...but I do appreciate the insights and wisdom that you guys are able to share on here.
Do you have a "Mercruiser" manual or an aftermarket manual ?
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,209
Would it be worthwhile to just replace the ignition coil at this point? It appears to be the original, though, it is definitely producing spark, but enough? I don't think that this distributor has points nor a condenser being EST-based. Thank you.
Correct no points or condenser in a delco est. If you are getting a good spark that jumps 1/4" gap or so then no the coil is not the issue

Have you checked the tach vs a known shop tach?

And you are getting a total advance of say 25-28 at 2500 rpm or so?

If that is correct then I might go back in the carb- 4 turns out seems like a lot wonder if it is not fully clean
 

GeorgioP07

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
20
Correct no points or condenser in a delco est. If you are getting a good spark that jumps 1/4" gap or so then no the coil is not the issue

Have you checked the tach vs a known shop tach?

And you are getting a total advance of say 25-28 at 2500 rpm or so?

If that is correct then I might go back in the carb- 4 turns out seems like a lot wonder if it is not fully clean
Hi, Yes, the total advance met what the service manual was calling for, in that range. I will go back to the air/fuel mixture screw # of turns again. I also initially thought that 4-5 turns out was turned too far out, but I made that adjustment in the middle of the lake, as it was recommended to make it on a warmed up engine. I recall it was very hard for me to tell the difference in RPM. smoothness, etc.. between 2 and 5 turns out from running too lean or too rich, the # of turns didn't seem to make as much of a difference as I thought it would when it was running at temp.
 
Last edited:

GeorgioP07

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
20
Most all auto supply stores carry an adjustable gap jumping tool, usually less than 10 bucks. You can adjust the distance where the spark jumps to see how strong the spark is. Why replace parts until you know it is bad ?
Oh, Yes, now with the words "Adjustable, and 'Jumping" added, I was able to locate one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Convenie...Tool-with-Adjustable-Gap-Distance/14582409093. I will get that..so for this engine, I am looking for a blue spark that just has to jump at least 1/4" using this tool inline for each cylinder? I can do that. Thanks.
 
Last edited:

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,209
Hi, Yes, the total advance met what the service manual was calling for, in that range. I will go back to the air/fuel mixture screw # of turns again. I also thought that it was turned too far out, but I made that adjustment in the middle of the lake, as it was recommended to make it on a warmed up engine. It seems to like that higher # of turns, but I recall it was very hard to tell the difference between 2 and 5 turns out.
the idle mix screws wont make any difference how it runs at higher rpm , just indicative that something was off if it ran best that many screws out.
 

GeorgioP07

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
20
the idle mix screws wont make any difference how it runs at higher rpm , just indicative that something was off if it ran best that many screws out.
Yes, agreed something was off, and still is. I will go back to 2 turns out, then let it warm back up and check it again. I used an ultrasonic cleaner on carburetor venturi and as many smaller pieces that would fit in my 7" cleaner. I did not want to soak the whole carburetor body in a can of Berryman's or similar carburetor MEK or Acetone-based soak cleaner. - since that would also eat off the black OEM paint and that could plug up some of the orifices.
 

GeorgioP07

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
20
Remove valve cover.---Start motor.-----See if all valves are moving.
Uggh.. that is above my pay grade. Isn't there a better way to check for a stuck valve?
Would not the compression measurements be off if there was a valve that was sticking? All 4 psi measurements were very close. I will try a spoonful of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder before I tear the engine apart. Thanks...
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,425
Would it be worthwhile to just replace the ignition coil at this point? It appears to be the original, though, it is definitely producing spark, but enough? I don't think that this distributor has points nor a condenser being EST-based. Thank you.
No, coils either work, or they dont
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,379
rebuilt the TKS carb to specs in service manual,
Cylinder #1: 175psi ;
Cylinder #2: 175psi ;
Cylinder #3: 175psi, and
Cylinder #4: 180 psi.
I noticed that one AC Delco (MR43LTS) spark plug had a very slight wiggle to it between the insulator and the body , so that one was replaced.
Timing
Yes, I did this test back over a month ago and it passed.

Remove valve cover.---Start motor.-----See if all valves are moving.

There is nothing wrong with the valves with pressure this high. Might have some liquid in the cylinders but everything is within "spec", so that's not the issue

Everything I read says there is nothing wrong with the motor
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
39,015
????----If a valve is stuck closed you would see nice compression numbers.-----It is a simple , very simple job to remove valve cover.----Something is wrong with the engine and it should be simple to determine what it is !
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,379
He removed each plug wire and after each plug was removed it had the same amount of rpm drop
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,209
Yes, agreed something was off, and still is. I will go back to 2 turns out, then let it warm back up and check it again. I used an ultrasonic cleaner on carburetor venturi and as many smaller pieces that would fit in my 7" cleaner. I did not want to soak the whole carburetor body in a can of Berryman's or similar carburetor MEK or Acetone-based soak cleaner. - since that would also eat off the black OEM paint and that could plug up some of the orifices.
I used simple green in an u on my friends holley off his Volvo penta , cleaned it and didn’t strip the finish. Simple green is what edlebrock recommends for its marine finish to not strip the gold Finish off.
 

GeorgioP07

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
20
I used simple green in an u on my friends holley off his Volvo penta , cleaned it and didn’t strip the finish. Simple green is what edlebrock recommends for its marine finish to not strip the gold Finish off.
That is very close to what I ran in my Ultrasonic cleaner for this carburetor.
I used the Zep equivalent - Concentrated All Purpose green liquid de-greaser. Thanks,.
 

ESGWheel

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
831
Jumping in late on trying to noddle this issue that is perplexing and get the OP back on the water. To help with that below is a summary to date with some items that are perplexing (perhaps only to) me.
  • Bought late last season all was good and ran WOT at 35+ MPH.
  • Did a bunch of maintenance items last season and still ran good at 35+ MPH (this is implied but if not the case, please correct)
  • Self-winterization
  • This season issues with idling > needs to be at 900 (vs 750) and does the shake and will not get above 15 MPH / 2900 RPM at WOT
  • Lots of items replaced / checked including
    • New fuel pump
    • Rebuilt carb
    • Timing including the advance
    • Compression was a little higher than normal. Also I do not understand “let the gauge sit for a few minutes on each cylinder test, and there was no leaking”. And OP noted one of the plugs had a loose electrode insulator.
An indication that the test of of pulling plug wires one at a time to note the RPM drop was done BUT I am usure this has been done. There was a “spark test” in post #3 but was not a pull the plug wire and note the RPM drop that I can see. OP is going to do that test again to be sure (post # 36).

Given the rough idle + needing to be higher than usual + poor performance on the water I am leaning to a cylinder not contributing.

My suggestion:
  1. Pull all the plugs and disable the coil (unplug the dizzy) and while a helper is turning the motor over, look for any spray or mist that is coming out of the spark plug holes.
  2. Put back together and redo the pull one spark plug wire at a time while engine is idling and note RPM drop. Note: when reinstalling the plug wires from test 1 above, put it on enough to ensure a good connection but not fully. This will make it easier to pull off the wire. When you initially start the motor if its running rougher than normal, one of those wires needs to be seated more. Wear good insulating gloves.
And post results of above two tests. Thanks.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,209
I saw new fuel pump but was fuel pump pressure measured under load ?

my other hobby is old cars - its a chronic issue with mechanical fuel pumps these days - the pressure output is all over the place, even on what was historically considered good brands
 
Top