Lund tyee I/O transom removal

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brunolund

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has anybody else replaced a transom on a Lund tyee(or similar), with an I/O? I’m wondering if it’s better to lift the cap and bend the top of the skin, or drill out 200 some odd rivets and remove the rear skin completely? I know the engine and drive and bellhousing has to come off, along with everything else, really just trying to decide between lifting the cap and bending the top of the skin vs. drilling rivets and trying to reseal the rear panel.
 
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brunolund

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MikeSchinlaub said:
Lift the cap. If you go up to about the windshield, you can lift the cap enough without creasing it.
Click to expand...
what’s your thoughts on the top section of the rear panel? i did one previously where i just bent it up straight, but it was imposible to bend back nicely. it worked, but it was pretty waves and not flat like it was originally.
 
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MikeSchinlaub

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Can you post a picture? I'm not sure what piece you're talking about.

Also, my brain kinda skipped over I/O. I read Lund and just went straight to outboard. I'll have to see the area, but still you'll be better off taking apart the interior and what I'm assuming is a casting deck than doing the rivets.
 
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brunolund

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hopefully these will help. this is how i did it last time. i’m just wondering if it would be easier to drill out the rivets and remove the entire back panel instead of the cap and bending the top angle
 

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MikeSchinlaub

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Ok, I get it now. I think I've done one like that a long time ago. The problem withthe rivets is you would have to have them back in before you put the transom in. How would you hold a block to the inside with the transom in the way? Plus the paint.
 
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brunolund

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if i remember correctly, it wasn’t tight to the sides or bottom. i think there was about a 1” gap all the way around. i was thinking id be able to wedge a dolly in there. it would still be tough though. I’d be curious to know how it was built originally.
 
Bondo

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Way back when I replaced the transom wood in my '74 Starcraft 221 Islander, I cut off a strip of the transom cap, changed out the wood, then pop-riveted a new piece of 1/8" aluminum, which being twice as thick as the original, gave me the perfect surface to mount my down-riggers,....
 
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brunolund

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i was actually thinking of just cutting that top angle off. wonder if i could also weld it back on? i’d have to leave a small gap so i didn’t burn the wood, but that shouldn’t be a problem. just weld it in small sections.
 
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