1966 Johnson 60hp won’t fully engage reverse.

GigaShad · Sunday at 3:42 PM

Are these gears in need of replacement?

Link to photos.

I’ve disconnected everything up to the bell crank. I manually shifted at the bell crank with vise grips. It goes into reverse fully for some time, then slips out.

It would seem that the only thing left to do is replace the reverse gear and clutch dog.

DeepCMark58A · Sunday at 4:32 PM

clutch dog, if it isn't grinding the gear is fine.

racerone · Sunday at 5:11 PM

Parts look to be in fine shape.----Agjustment / assembly issue.

GigaShad · 2026-08-03T19:14:18-0600

Is the clutch dog a directional part? Could I have put it in backwards? I don’t recall the manual stating anything about a direction.

I suppose the only thing left to do is take it apart again.

Do you recommend any shimming?

Chris1956 · 2026-08-03T19:32:30-0600

Check the play in the shift linkage. On my Fat-fifty, it was 1/8" movement before the cradle moved. Sometimes new bushings can be fitted.

racerone · 2026-08-04T00:28:50-0600

Explain how you assembled the lower shift rod into the connecter.-----This is at the side of the exhaust housing.

GigaShad · 2026-08-04T09:44:09-0600

racerone said:
Explain how you assembled the lower shift rod into the connecter.-----This is at the side of the exhaust housing.

I opened the windows, lines the couplet up, moved the lever so the upper portion moved downward, made sure the groove was flush with the coupler ID. tightened bolt. Confirmed there was no play by holding the lower shift rod while moving the shift lever with my hand.

GigaShad · 2026-08-04T10:06:20-0600

Chris1956 said:
Check the play in the shift linkage. On my Fat-fifty, it was 1/8" movement before the cradle moved. Sometimes new bushings can be fitted.

There is play in the cable/controls, however, I removed all the linkage from the bell crank to the hand controls to rule that out.

I then used a bore scope to observe the bell crank while shifting by hand at the engine side lever. There was zero play at the bell crank.

I then held the lower shift rod while moving the shift lever and there was no play in the shift rods or their coupler.

The prop does move in and out while shifting through F, N, R. Is that normal. It’s maybe a 1/4” of movement.

GigaShad · 2026-08-04T10:07:56-0600

racerone said:
Explain how you assembled the lower shift rod into the connecter.-----This is at the side of the exhaust housing.

Is it normal for the prop to move in and out of the torpedo when shifting through the three positions? It moves maybe 1/4”.

racerone · 2026-08-04T10:15:02-0600

Notches in both the upper and lower shift rods MUST be lined up BEFORE the bolts are put into the connecter.

IslandExplorer · 2026-08-04T10:37:30-0600

If you have excessive bearing play in lower unit that movement could help jiggle the clutch dogs loose possibly.

Is this happening in the water or on muffs? When in water the prop will hold it pretty steady fore or aft if in FWD or REV so it could potentially not happen in water but only playing around with it on muffs.

Id see about that play forward and back on the prop shaft, if those bearings are loose that might just be it. Then also carefully verify clutch parts aren't reversed, beaeings aren't reversed, or missing a shim or bearing spacer or whatever. Should be fairly tight and not a lot of play with any of it, despite its age. 1/4" doesn't seem wilsly excessive to me but maybe it is quite sensitive. Would be great to have the official spec for that.

GigaShad · 2026-08-04T13:33:41-0600

racerone said:
Notches in both the upper and lower shift rods MUST be lined up BEFORE the bolts are put into the connecter.

Yes I’m aware.

“…made sure the groove was flush with the coupler ID…”

GigaShad · 2026-08-04T13:41:16-0600

IslandExplorer said:
If you have excessive bearing play in lower unit that movement could help jiggle the clutch dogs loose possibly.
Is this happening in the water or on muffs? When in water the prop will hold it pretty steady fore or aft if in FWD or REV so it could potentially not happen in water but only playing around with it on muffs.

Id see about that play forward and back on the prop shaft, if those bearings are loose that might just be it. Then also carefully verify clutch parts aren't reversed, beaeings aren't reversed, or missing a shim or bearing spacer or whatever. Should be fairly tight and not a lot of play with any of it, despite its age. 1/4" doesn't seem wilsly excessive to me but maybe it is quite sensitive. Would be great to have the official spec for that.

It slips in the water and in the trash can.

I’m probably going to tear the entire thing apart again this weekend. I’ll document the orientation of every part. Manual does not call for any shims.

I had accounted for all thrust washers during the last rebuild. Everything is there.

I have considered adding a shim behind the reverse gear to nudge it toward the clutch dog a bit.

As far as the bearings, they are needle bearings. I’m not sure how they could be “loose” without completely failing. They’re pressed up against edges. They are quite tight.

There is no side to side or up and down play. The shaft is solid on those planes. The movement is exclusively forward and backward. When I shift, I can see the prop moving in and out slightly.

1966 Johnson 60hp won’t fully engage reverse.

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