I bought a project. On purpose.

redneck joe

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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16,554
build braces.

NOW IS THE TIME.

if you are in this deep there is ZERO reason not to do it.


i normally don't use caps, but it is needed.


do it.


oh and treat yourself to some 4 or 6ah ryobi batteries.
 
PatinIdaho

PatinIdaho

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Oct 7, 2014
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I cannot put this back together until next spring, so the plan is to leave the engine stringers in until then, as long as the hull remains flat, and it is so far.
As long as i leave the engine stringers in im pretty sure all is good for now.
Temps are down in the 40s as a high. No fiberglassing allowed for about the next 5 months. January and February we could see -20
So i have been just doing what i can. Demo, sanding, and getting new wood cut and fit-ready to go back together when the weather allows.
The plan for tomorrow is to get it blocked up somehow if it is not raining. Then take the engine stringers out and get teardown and prep work done.
 
B

bakerjw

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Apr 3, 2013
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PatinIdaho said:
I really want to take the two engine stringers out but i don't know how much they are actually supporting the hull. As it is right now it is sitting on a roller trailer and holding a 4 foot level against the hull on the outside it is still flat.
The hull is 1/2 inch thick, as far as i can tell and the small center section area is close to an inch altogether.
Click to expand...
A lot of people overlook the support aspect and end up with warpage along the way. If it were me, I'd takeout all of the old material and rebuild back better and stronger.

I saw some discussion about epoxy and traditional resins. Epoxy sticks to everything if it is prepped well. Poly and vinyl esters will stick to epoxy but it is a mechanical bond and has to have good clean rough surface.
 
PatinIdaho

PatinIdaho

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bakerjw said:
A lot of people overlook the support aspect and end up with warpage along the way. If it were me, I'd takeout all of the old material and rebuild back better and stronger.

I saw some discussion about epoxy and traditional resins. Epoxy sticks to everything if it is prepped well. Poly and vinyl esters will stick to epoxy but it is a mechanical bond and has to have good clean rough surface.
Click to expand...
I just got a 6-foot level yesterday. Before i fiberglass anything, the hull will be flat.
From what i read, epoxy is the best to use and most expensive.
I don't need the best, and i don't really like working with epoxy.
The boat was built with polyester. Least expensive and has not failed yet and probably never would.
I plan on using vinylester laminating resin. For me, it's the easiest to use and what im familiar with.
Better than poly, but not as strong as epoxy. Middle ground on price.

The hull is 38 years old and the fiberglass has not failed even with all the less than ideal construction i have found.
Honestly, with good prep work anything i do will be as good or better than the factory did.
 
C

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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29,305
Gee, I have done fiberglass work in the dead of winter here in the NE. I put some blankets over the hull and an electric heater inside. Remember, poly resin is flammable, so one needs to be careful.
 
PatinIdaho

PatinIdaho

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Chris1956 said:
Gee, I have done fiberglass work in the dead of winter here in the NE. I put some blankets over the hull and an electric heater inside. Remember, poly resin is flammable, so one needs to be careful.
Click to expand...
Hmm. In the back of my mind i had the idea that i could get a sheet of foam insulation. Cut it to fit the outside of the transom. Get the interior up to around 65, then start putting it back together.
The problem with that is, as soon as i put the wood on the transom, the outside starts cooling as the heat can not get to it anymore and with needing to clamp it i just can't see a real way to do it.
 
PatinIdaho

PatinIdaho

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After 3 days of rain, today was dry and a high temp of 45.
Got the boat off the trailer more or less. There is a slight amount of weight on the rollers, but it ain't much. I can turn the roller by hand with very little effort.
I have read that Sea Ray did not use the wood engine stringers as a structural part, they were more a mold for the fiberglass.

My engine stringers were not as bad as i had thought. They are soaked and are rotting for sure but still mostly solid. A few more years and they might have been mush.

20261029_105245.jpg

The stringers were not attached to the hull.

20261029_102820.jpg

None of the fiberglass was attached to the wood verywell anyplace.

20261029_103318.jpg20261029_104921.jpg

The stringers do not go past the small forward bulkhead giving the fuel tank support.
20261029_105002.jpg

That's today's progress.
 
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