Would it be crazy to cross lake Champlain in a 14’ boat? My fiancé and I are probably taking a boat to the Ausable chasm area in the Adirondack’s for our honeymoon. There are some things that she wants to do in Burlington area of Vermont so we would need to catch a ferry. But what about...
If I had a buddy with a wrecker I’d consider it. We have a skid steer and forks at work that probably has the lift I need. But I have to get both boats there
I just thought about this. My fiancé hasn’t put a priority on fixing the big boat ( 18’ StarCraft ) but we do want to bring a boat.. there’s enough time to get the motor swapped so I might get approval
I’m going to be careful. May or may not use it up there but it tows so light that it’s not going to hurt anything. But if it’s calm enough it’s getting launched.
I’ve got the last week of Aug off as well as my job shuts down for a week so I may be able to squeeze thousand island trip in then
Well, we settled on staying in Keeseville NY, right near Ausable Chasm and Alice falls. Deal breaker for my fiancé was no water falls. However I am dragging the little boat with us to Lake Champlain. We will make the trip down to Fort Ticonderoga as well
I’ve worked on trailers 40-50 years old to current and have never come across anything other than 1/2” on a 5 lug. 6 or 8 lug are either 1/2” or 9/16”. I know 5/8” lug nuts exist but I gotta say I don’t think I’ve ever seen one on a trailer. Except on some older trailers with dual tandem...
I’m trying to figure this out in my head as to how or why.. a 5 lug trailer will have 1/2”-20 studs or lug bolts depending on axle mfr. A 6 lug or 8 lug trailer may have 1/2” or 9/16” studs but the same wheels will fit. I do remember working on one trailer at work that had a 5 1/4” bolt circle...
In the small engine segment, techumseh had their solid state ignition starting in 1967 for the HH series engines, many years before Briggs and Stratton. The system is really reliable but if it does go bad, techumseh discontinued the replacement parts even before they went bankrupt. The blocks...
the points ignition on the ‘66 super seahorse 40hp I had was super reliable. It actually fired up within a couple rotations on a cold start and used to impress people at the launches.. but the carburetor needing a float and the gear case leaking/ old goober repair that it was more of a project...
A tin boat is much louder against the hull than a fiberglass boat.. you can try to deaden it but really you will always hear the splashing. It’s one of the things that signifies your riding in an old StarCraft
Foam is actually not structural on a tin boat. Older StarCraft actually used styrofoam sheets. Some people use pool noodles under the floor, some use blue or green insulation board. Any option had the ability to create enough flotation to keep it mostly above the surface
Very common. But it’s literally few Weeks of Working on it after your day job. Not a big job at all. I did a 14’ Holiday in one month. New deck, wiring, bilge pump, carpet and seats. I didn’t do the transom at that time as it was okay
@racerone would be able to give you the rundown on them. If they spin over with good compression, there is a solid chance they are serviceable. Pretty cool it’s an outboard version and it has twins.
Double floor is a Re-deck and is commonly found. Just tear it out with the transom that’s also...
If the deck feels spongy at all, then it calls the stringers into question…. And a solid deck with a rotten transom screams the possibility of a deck- over band aid which should then be investigated.. boats rot from the bottom up. Your boat will also be full of foam which may even make it feel...
I really only keep in date safety gear in my boat. Tubes, skies and such on an as needed basis.. 2 boats are almost a requirement. I’ve got a 14’ runabout I can take absolutely anywhere that is calm waters and working on getting my 18’ bowrider going so that I can take more people into rougher...
