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I wouldn't drill holes through the transom. It'll just be added body and paint work when you eventually replace it. I know it sucks, but once water gets in the only way to be sure is to cut into it and start removing wet material. Otherwise, you can't be sure you got it all.

You'll have to take your boat to an upholstery shop and have one made. As someone who fixes boats, but doesn't own one, I suggest a single piece cover with ratchet straps to tighten the sides. Snaps get smashed, pull through the cover, and are likely places for gel cracking.

Says the man who forgets how itchy fiberglass is :)

I don't see why you couldn't do a stringer there instead. It's going to be pretty small though.

In pictures on the previous page, I can see what look like small boards glassed in place and running sideways between the stringer and verticle side of the hull. Are these what you're talking about?

Picture uploads have been broken for a while. The only option at the moment is to upload to another picture hosting site and post a link here. https://offerup.com/item/detail/2a0b48f3-9396-3d4a-8cbf-7bbbf45a1a5d I google the trailer and came up with this. Does it match yours?

@Scott Danforth What do you use for a siphon gun? My supervisor has one of the Harbor Freight Spectrum HTE guns, and it lays out well, but it's only a 1.7mm needle. I'd like at least a 2.0 hte, but google isn't really helping here.

It was really hot and humid that day, plus the heat generated by about a quart of gel and the slow spraying of the gun. It's far from the first time I've had it set up quick like that, but that gun has been giving me trouble for a while so I just let it go.

You don't have time for small batches. If you try that, what's left if the first will kick in the gun before you get the second sprayed. You need to spray a full cup at a time, and with those temps likely do a full tear down and clean between each cup. Also, about your enclosure. That will have...

You want a big needle too, at least a 2.0. Spray it like a high build primer, about 5 coats. Then, even if it's gummy on the surface, you can sand and buff it.

Wire cup wheel on a dremel. There are nylon ones for something less aggressive, but even the steel will be relatively gentle compared to a wire cup on a grinder.

Have you resealed the drain plug and any thru hulls below the water line? Any other equipment down there?

Neither am I.

It needs to be glassed to the hull, the cap just sits on top of it. Without glassing to the hull, the sides will have way more flex and likely crack and bust.

You'll need to measure the hose size and length. I've seen a few that needed extra long tubes. Some are also a right angle on the inside. Best to get them out before ordering.

Does the Polarkraft use any eood in it's construction? Even if it hasn't been used, that's still nearly 2 years of weathering. Worst case would be sitting around with no cover for every rain and snow.

What? This can't be right, it reads as open hull, resin, glass, resin, lay wood in, then pour resin over everything. Unless you mean you glassed the floor outside of the boat, then laid it in the hull and sealed with resin. Either way is wrong. It should be as follows. 1. Dry fit all floor...

When you say resined, you mean glassed right? It need to be part of the structure, attached with glass.

It works fine for us. It's what the boss gets from Ace. 100% silicone, no caulk or rtv.

Honestly, I'm surprised this one lasted as long as it did. I think I only spent about $80 on it.