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Products today are " assembled " by corporations from parts made by vendors.----They are NOT parts made in house by a family run factory. !-----It is in fact easier to find parts ( at least in my area ) for older / simpler motors.-----But new products are for folks with lots of $$$ and no fear...

I would have to look inside to see what is jammed !------But do some simple testing.---Remove the sparkplugs.------Find the GREEN and BLUE wires that go to the lower unit and disconnect them.-----Put a 1-5/16" socket on the flywheel nut.-----Turn the flywheel.----Is the gearcase in forward , yes...

And in my humble opinion the issue is NOT the reverse solenoid.----That item is not energized during starting of the motor.----It does NOTHING.

In a nutshell , the reverse solenoid is not / should not be involved in the starting procedure !

The motor is in FORWARD when it starts to crank.----With 12 volts on Green it goes to neutral after just 1 rotation of the flywheel.------When you select reverse there should be 12 volts on both green and blue .----Here it would be an easy fix.

An empty carburetor stays clean.

The big red plug is clearly shown in earlier pictures.

Slide rubber boot back to expose the metal connecter.-----Turn key to on.----Touch metal connecter to ground.----Horn should sound.----And no need to open throttle to do a compression test on that simple motor.

The buzzer is in the control box at the helm station.

???-----Some love to argue.-----If (a big if ) the oil seals are original they need to be replaced.----These gearcases are not robust.-----Parts are expensive if available !-----Good used gearcases are at a premium.

That lever is for manual operation of the choke.----Used when you need to start the motor with a dead battery.-----These plates close when operating the electric choke switch.-----Time to get an owners manual or get someone to teach you about this motor.----You do not want to be educated through...

Judging by statements so far , you need a proper manual in order to understand how these fine / smooth running motors are put together.----There are no short cuts.----Mistakes will be expensive.

Just an example of plastic parts failing with time.-----Should not be hard to find a used one.----But new might be a better option.----Then again a new one may have been made 15 years ago.----Doubt there is a roll pin needed to stop the pinion.

The powerhead MUST be removed from the exhaust housing in order to do a proper repair.

That cover has a bushing that supports the starter pinion shaft.----Was it ever lubricated ?----New flywheel cover is listed at $131 or so.

With motor in normal running position , it drains all water out.-----No need for antifreeze.

Pictures . model / serial# / year of this motor?

The trouble shooting starts with a compression test.----Post the actual values here.----Next is a spark check.----Do you have spark that jumps gap of at least 3/8" on all leads?----The surging points to a fuel supply issue.

What motor ?---Is motor tested / proven to be in good condition?

It is easy to replace that o-ring in the shift cover.