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Make sure you did not put the plastic washer under inlet needle when carbs where serviced

Need to pump a mechanical pump back on it as electric may not supply enough fuel to keep carbs filled.

Take stabilizer off and float test it

Just remove tan/blu wire from plastic connector(14) from the module...

Yes....

You dont need the module since oiler has been by passed, Disconnectt the purple wire to module

Odd it has foil tape on switchbox and the clear potting leads me to believe it may be a chinesem switch box. Yank powerhead,strip it down, get a factory manual,bore all six, replace switchboxes,impeller and t-stat and reassemble

If its #1,#3 or #6 it a advance/idle stablizer failure..common problem

Anything can be repaired but got to find out why it went down so there isnt a repeat.

Checked the water separating filter?

These rarely fail unless engine gets majorly overheated. 95% of oil problems on the 3/4 cylinder loopers are the magnet coming unglued from float in oil tank and warning modules.

This is usually a reservoir problem

Coils rarely fail..espeicially 5 at one time.

Make sure starter RPM is not slow

Remove prop and retest. If it frees up check prop shaft for warpage or incorrect/missing prop washer.

The only Cheetahs' I have see are tunnel style deck boats and never seen a outboard version. Like Duke stated it under powered for a 20fter

Piston upside down?????

Air temp sensor for manifold....you have a EFI not a Optimax

The inline looper motors rarely have a gear failure unless it got really hot. Thats why the oil pump is not monitored...

Your 140 could have come with either the large or small gear case which both have the same gear ratio. The 1983 will be the small gearcase but will bolt up as DS length is the same.