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put more weight up-front. on my underpowered Avanti, it required everyone up front to get my lard-butt out of the water on one ski. as for drop in power. plug in Rinda and look for codes.

what serial number is on the sticker on the clamp?

an electric carving knife is cheaper than a hot-wire knife. all we used at work were garage sale buy electric carving knives. (usually $1)

that would have started the corrosion almost instantly

look at the cover on your pump. it will have Johnsons part number on it.

this should be it with the wire anti-rotation bracket 10-13614-02 https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pump-10-13614-02-Impeller-Malibu/dp/B0D4FJ4B9V

a new pump is only $175 look up Johnson pumps. you have either a Johnson F5B-9 or the slightly longer F6B-9. the longer (higher flow) F6B-9 is about $80 cheaper than the F5B for some reason. rebuild kits are reasonable too. dont pay volvo for the same pump you can buy yourself. here is a...

that looks like galvanic corrosion. something is literally eating the aluminum. check your electrical grounds. none should be using the boat as a ground.

For a motor manual, go here. https://publications.brunswick.com/ As far as a boat manual, only about 12 manufacturers (out of 200,000 manufacturers over the past 100 years) have an actual manual, other than the 4-page safety brochure listing the servicing dealers Take a boaters safety course

Can do 3 12 volt batteries wired in series

Ted, I have a prop if you need it .....PM me

By clean....use 150 grit and make the terminals shiny enough your mother in law would eat off them If the cables are crunchy, replace them When done, seal the connections with marine electrical varnish

Measuring the pic with a ruler shows it's stretched.

It's a ~100 amp contactor with isolated ground. Available nearly anywhere

I run my VP without the drive all the time. I made up a hose that jumps from 1" to 1-1/4 and run the hose directly to the raw water pump

When I had to rebuild my ex father in laws boat due to live well plumbing. I spent a day with a small pick digging in the carpet to find the screws. Then another 2 days pulling the boat apart, finding the screws I missed

You're one of those aren't you. You're short circuiting..... Someone who is so enamored with a recommendation made 33 years ago for a motor that is now obsolete by today's standards for an obsolete oil spec that was state of art 35-40 years ago that you short circuit if some makes a suggestion...

Yes, engines in the late 80s and early 90s called for straight weight oil..... Then oil technology got better and the OEMs switched to 20w40 and 20w50..... Then zinc levels dropped as motor technology advanced Don't over think it. The 15w-40 diesel oil is pretty much perfect for a boat motor...

Anywhere from 300 to 1000 depending on condition and geographic location

I would probably use boat caulk or 4200