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2 coil short wires are the coil primary winding.... resistance around 1 ohms max usually.. one wire is grounded under a coil mounting bolt ( scrape away paint) the other goes to the point screw with the condenser wire either of the primary wires measured with the high voltage pin should...

we keep going in circles... stick a screw driver to see you FW magnets feel strong adjust the points adjust the timing per video retest all ohms between primaries and KOhms from plug boots to frame test or replace the condensers remove any kill wires on the points leave just coil...

the base ring under the mag plate must be secured properly.2 short bolts and 2 long bolts . did you try to adjust timing per the video. at the very least.... adjust the points gap to .020 at the highest point of the cam lobe.

go to post#5 download the book I told you year 2002-2006 ETEC & FICHT in the book you will find a wire diagram for the 200-250 as I recall. find the diagram split in 2 pages 4-50 and 4-51 print and glue them midway and that diagram is probably 98% yours . btw that 70 amp...

we know you have no sparks....try post #21 and utubes.....millions of these magnetos run fine. nothing special about yours .

good to know....cheaper than a EMM repair for certain... hope it works out keep us posted. Relays can sometimes be invoked for short durations and their coil windings never have a chance to " heat up" . Not familiar with yours but.... if it is kept energized for reasons beyond normal...

that johson red _white book is what you need to service your oldy see my post above for $20 you need it

Faztzbullet with his experience is most likely correct but your test with the extra cooling is interesting. On a newer version ETEC EMM the thing uses power rectified from the stator and will run fine tiill shut down but if the 10amp fuse is blow it will not fire up til it gets + from...

interesting... something new ! found some write ups on THEHULLTRUTH.COM site seems yes .... bad EMM will do it https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/996809-evinrude-ficht-intermittent-no-start-solved-printerfriendly.html...

those magnetos are awfully simple....disconnect all extra wires of the points except ones from the coil primary and the condenser. clean the points !! finish with acetone or carb cleaner to remove any residue or oil install the FW and spin with plugs out. if you have good sparks now...

the 2000 + manual doesn't cover your 225 from year 2000 but may provide good info to help out just go down this list and download the 2000 + ETC FICHT manual https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-pyBmXzRaZ16y9sJ1QkSfjnBGwA-HzsB

it is best to not assume to much get EV diagnostics and read the fault codes then attack the problem(s) the LED self test is no indication other than the tach is working Do you get LEDs when it shuts down ??and won't start . if no LEDs come on and it dies it may be just a fuel flow...

visit aomci site they have a classified section to buy- sell ... just ask https://www.aomci.org/resources/ask-a-member/

Did you look up the Poche family TN service for the carb. ?? http://pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html special leather seals are needed for the primer pump.. visit aomci site and Loyd will provide info seals are about 15$ by snail mail https://www.aomci.org/resources/ask-a-member/

Neither was I TC two cycle W water 3 3rd generation oil if it says it meets TCW3 isis good for water cooled engines yet some are better than others quality wise Wally mart oil was always smelly in my old Merc 500 ... Mercury oil wasalways better :-) any info on this...

use proper oil !!! TCW3or TCW3 is it . :-) ... throw in a bottle of engine cleaner it wont hurt to service that oldy the bettr book is this one if you dont have it https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm / to timing see video

I am the only living Pit Bull on trouble shooting anything. Patience brings joy

:) forgot the nuts

mdl#????? ficht ? anyhow here is what I found hopefully correct SHIFT ROD HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT - DI/FICHT and E-TEC ENGINES Shift Rod Height Model Gearcase Ideal Acceptable Range 40/50/60/70 E-T ec 20 in. Shaft (L Models) 21.38 in. (543mm) Give or take 1/2 t 22.5 in. Shaft (Y Models) 23.88...

battery is step#1 in the checking process... .next comes cable crimps (loose oxydized) next are engine side connections and full wiring checks dead tilt and trim is frequently a bad fuse somewere maybe a bad ground B- batt to engine frame next are voltage tests to see anything...