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You may want to do some troubleshooting. coils rarely if ever go bad.

your motor didnt know it was in gear. not reving in neutral is to save the motor from grenading. so now fix the switch.

your plugs are based on the cylinder heads. what cylinder heads does your motor have? vortec heads require longer reach plugs

go to the top of the forums, look in the 4th sticky down. read links 14, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

A section of threaded rod

Pressure check your cooling system. My guess..... improper winterizing

Long enough the grip range is what you are putting it thru

That would be a F5B-9 on the early SBC VP AQs

Without the outdrive (on the stand), good pressure (over 80psi) and a 3/4" hose, you can do it. However I would break it in on the water

Is the dizzy installed 180 out?

If you have a new flat tappet cam. Make sure to use proper break in oil (high zinc) and once started, bring to 2000 RPM for 20 minutes to break in the cam

The wiring insulation from the 70s thru 80s will have failed by now

I prefer the windiage tray over a baffle. My guess is the studs from the center caps are hitting the pan baffle. In that case, just use the baffled pan

For stuck rings, maybe usually you fill the motor with ATF. However usually the bores are trashed requiring a rebuild However for bearings, no there is no simple fix but to pull it apart

Flat paint scratches and scuffs easy. Each scuff leaves the paint surface more shiney than the surrounding paint It's the nature of the paint Maybe try a flat clear

Take a USCG course

Stainless and aluminum should never be touching or you have galvanic corrosion. The rivets should be aluminum

Keep your questions in the open forums

The impeller is over an inch above the split between the lower and the leg. So add 9" above the split for the water level

Baffles are needed more in a boat than in a car if you are referring to the windiage tray, use it