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People who buy new stuff generally do not worry about repairs.-----Just look at high end cars and boats.----Folks trade for a new car when tires are worn out.----Force built an " L-DRIVE " in those years.----Sold a few and won awards with it.----Not popular today.

So it keeps running if you operate the manual fuel pump ?------Post your compression test values as well.-----For future reference.----Fuel pump runs with crankcase PRESSURE and there may be issues there.----Part # of the fuel pump you are using now ?

Are you pushing key in while cranking it over ?-----Is the VRO in service and tested for oil output ?-----Replaced water pump impeller every 5 years ?----Post the compression test numbers.

Many folks are keen on carburetor kits.-----But why ?-----Not much goes wrong in there.-----What is your motor doing / not doing ?-----If you have issues with running or idling , then start with a compression test.----Post your numbers.

Relative to the amount of time / labor involved the extra pennies for the composite material is not worth talking about.-----Water has a way of destroying wood.----I want the grandson to say.-----" This boat goes 75 miles per hour.----Grandpa fixed it so it will never rot again"

I do not sell Coosa !!-----I just suggest that folks wanting to do a project do the job right !------Many folks don't have time to do the job right the first time.----But they always find time to do it twice !!

Timing does not go out of adjustment on these !----Except when flywheel key is sheared.----Check the key.-----Are both carburetor throttle plates closed at idle position ?----Do both open at the same time ?

Your location ?----Model # of your motor ?

Take big steps in rapid succession , out of their yard.-----Many eager buyers taking home junk these days.-------Shop for something better !

If wire from temperature switch is a tan color or tan with a blue stripe it might be for a warning horn.

It is NOT operated by vacuum.----The pump operates by crankcase compression PRESSURE !

I am rebuilding one now for someone 4 hrs away.-----Broken rings on 3 pistons.-----He said it would still run , but a little hard to start.-----I feel sorry sometimes for folks who just do not know how these motors work..----Or know how easy these motors are to diagnose.

Just leave the reeds alone and look for the real problem !

Well ----I would modify the pump that you have so that it can be mounted directly over the pulse port !!!

Hit something hard or it froze.-----Can be welded.----But can not be welded correctly to maintain alignment of precision parts.---That housing would be distorted.

Pull the head where you see 100 PSI -----I do not believe you will be happy with what you see in there !!

??--The long hose from pulse limiter to pump is not correct.-----Remember that the pump is driven by crankcase PRESSURE.and not vacuum as has been mentioned numerous times.----The correct pump as used on the 88 HP version ( same block as your 1988 model 110 HP ) and 1983 and older motors...

The pulse limiter is a " FLOW FUSE " designed to protect the VRO pump.

??----You remove the pulse limiter and put a pipe plug there.----Then mount the correct fuel pump ( 2 nipples ) directly over the pulse port provided on the intake manifold.----I can see the spot in last picture just above the pulse limiter.-----Nice and neat that way !!

My furnace oil was $1.40 or so.-----Not much I can do about it.-----New oil furnace a few years ago.-----Not going to pay for natural gas conversion.----May still think about wood , but wood is a lot of work.