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BTW, you can rebuild your drive. go here for info / videos / exploded views / parts. pretty much the last company that caters to the Obsolete Marine Co drives. http://www.sterndrive.info/omc_help_page.html

Chech your fuel vent

Having been there and done that, i would return the boat to whome you bought it from and give them an extra $100. It will save you money

84 is a stringer. Behind a 4 cylinder is a stringer 400, behind a v6 or v8 is a stringer 800 You need a 1981 to 1984 stringer 400 (also covers 1985) these are silver. The 1978 -1980 hydromechanical shift are white. Will not work PERIOD That shift cable is $900 dont damage it

Pull motor and look

read it for your self. 483hp 452 lb-ft from carb. 484hp, 454 lb-ft from EFI https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/carburetor-vs-fuel-injection-we-put-both-to-the-test-on-ls-engine/ no, EFI cant make more power (or fuel savings) yes, EFI can help make sure certain cylinders do not go lean...

shims havent been needed for over 30 years there are two bolts that go vertical from the bottom of the starter up sometimes you must pull the motor to get to those bolts. cheap starters fall apart.

you pull the cap and replace from the inside

Line-X's marine coating (UV stable version of poly urea bed liner developed by fishermen for fishermen who own center console fishing boats) https://sarasotalinex.com/line-x-protective-coatings/line-x-body-armour-xs650/ you can throw knives at it, swordfish at it and bathe it in blood...

gel coat line-x XS650 sea deck carpet its all up to you.

not to mention they also shred fiberglass and aluminum. additionally oyster shoals vs props means general propeller gets another $110

you are showing pics of the inner wall of the transom. what you dont know is the wood between the inner wall and the outer wall long ago rotted away and all that is left is wet mulch. same goes for the stringers, motor mount boxes, bulkheads, etc.

12 step program for boat rehab step 1 - denial step 2 - anger step 3 - acceptance step 4 - asking for guidance step 5 - reading the links I provided (you gotta also watch the videos) step 6 - buying the PPE and making the cradle step 7 - firing up the saws and grinders step 8 - sweating and...

I gelcoated mine after toying with the idea of sea-deck also toyed with Line-X XS-650 which would last forever I would not use Kiwigrip or a DIY spray in bed liner.

then it was replaced after 2011

welcome back I would PM a mod to bring back your prior account to your boat, I would not bother bottom painting unless you plan on keeping in the water. at that point, I would use bottom paint.

you know if the deck is soft, the transom and stringers long ago rotted away. the crack in the chine leaking water is evidence of that. so build a cradle and read links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b (in their entirety) from the following sticky in the restoration forum...

I would look for a 1996 or later bayliner with a rotten hull with a 4.3 and Alpha drive and transfer the whole works like post #4 then you sell the trailer the bayliner was on, sell the glass, etc and the whole thing may cost you sweat and about $1000

probably doesnt pass emissions

pontoon boat with a hydraulic jack plate