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3.0s will warp the head at rpms over 5000 When I had tha Avanti, i had a 15p for water sports and trolling, a 17p for general use, and a 19p for long cruising There just isnt enough power out of the 3.0 When pulling skiers, I normally had to move the spotter to the bow to get the boat on...

Turn boat upside down on saw bucks, pour a bit of 2# foam in each seat, wait 30 minutes, then flip back over and go boating

Resistor wire should be the section of wire between the coil and choke

Post #3 shows a 1995 or older timing tab

if it was a cracked block, normally the oil mikshake would push out the breathers. however it only takes about 6 ounces of water in the oil to make a milkshake. pressure test as Scott suggested (need to drain the water first). it should hold 15psi forever. if it passes, change oil at least...

I am pretty sure you were running lean. your comment on plugs looking clean would collaborate. I know when I put vortec heads on the '88, and changed the cam, I was running 75 primary jets and 92 secondary on the Holley 715 (up from 2 primary and 85 secondary) I may have been running a tad...

correct, however premium gas in montana is 89 octane, premium in Wisconsin is 91, and premium gas in florida is 93 octane. OP also stated running old fuel with stabilizer. as fuel gets past 6 months, it starts to break down however octane doesnt matter if you are running lean

how about EPDM rubber strips that wont absorb water and hold it against the tank. historically they used roofing felt (tar paper) folded twice. I would not use any foam weather stripping as it will hold moisture against the tank

I get 15mph on a 14' boat with 15hp. your fine in your 14' boat at 14mph with a 9.9 if you believe youtube, please see the doc for a session on the couch

with the flat top pistons that are in the engine, and with vortec heads, the compression ratio is 9.4:1 the heads on the 91 should have been 64cc heads just like the vortec, however the vortec heads have the LT3 combustion chamber on my AQ271, I had run stock GM block, comp cam XM262 and...

Mcmaster Carr also sells stainless rod and some tapping dies

or the ones that mount on the trim tabs lenco makes the troll-n-tabs

agreed, plugs should be caramel brown and not "still mostly clean" if you did not re-jet, that is one part of the problem. to loose the head gasket, you would have to have either lots of piston eating detonation or you havent got sufficient clamping.

Hey Ted, have you looked at the new Aviaras? https://www.aviaraboats.com/#welcome Matercrafts upscale line, made in Vonore TN available as both I/O and OB

first, welcome aboard second, what year motor did you start with?what style of ignition? did you read your plugs after your conversion? was the motor seriously overheated? did you re-jet your carburetor? tuliped valves come from overheat and running lean. to blow a head gasket means that...

why would you replace a $49 mechanical fuel pump that will last 30 years with a $89 electric pump with $15 worth of relay, oil pressure switch and wiring that will only last about 10? mechanical fuel pumps are superior to electric pumps in so many ways.

first, welcome aboard most likely your shift cable needs adjustment or replacment. sounds like the ESA module is being engaged.

what does the paperwork say it is (title, registration and bill of sale) remember, over the 100 years prior to the internet, hundreds of thousands of boat builders came and went, many only building one or two models.

Maybe in your car, however not in a boat