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The powerhead chassis components have some kind of epoxy or sealant on the gaskets. Makes them pretty hard to pull apart.

Okay, I guess that makes more sense than tearing everything apart. It's all epoxied together pretty well so Its going to be a real pain. I'll try to get a file for it this weekend. See what I can do. I'll post a video later in the week if all goes well.

Well without anyway to get the flywheel to seat, as the nut cannot go back on the crankshaft, I have no way to start the motor at the moment. I'll have to try some repairs or get a new crankshaft. Might be till next week that I can get the stuff I need to try it out. Might have to come back to...

I'll try to take a picture later but there really isn't much threading left on those top 2-3 threads to repair. Looks like they got completely ripped off.

Yeah, I'm guessing by your reaction that that's pretty bad? I was told it would run with those numbers.

Well, the guy who had it before me said he didn't make any changes, so must have been a previous owner who changed them out. Think I should replace them all again? Got any good tutorials or videos on how to use a meter to test the spark gap?

I've ran this old girl in a smaller lake on my 14ft jon. She did pretty good that day but afterwards I couldn't get her to stay running again. I figured it was old fuel, but no amount of changing fuel has helped. Checked the lower gear oil and haven't seen any metal or water, but since I'm...

Yeah looks like the threading is wrecked, so can't pull the rope to start to motor. - bolt is binding and wont go on all the way. It's real bad. I did use a three bolt puller but I took the bolt off before using the puller. I'll try to take a look at the fuel line connectors later. Reinspect...

I don't have a spark plug tester - I'm using alligator clips and grounding them to the cylinder head to check the spark. Not sure how to tell with those. Yes I know I tore up the bolt, first time taking a fly wheel off and I didn't realize the nut needed to stay on. Luckily the nut still seems...

I've got a 1962 Evinrude sportswin. Model is 10024A. Here's the symptoms - The motor will crank and spark with the choke pulled out, and sometimes it will even start up for a second or 2. Once it does this, it won't start again until the choke has been fully pushed in. Then it will start up and...

Thanks, I'll check the shift rod again. It looked pretty good when I pulled it out but I wasn't really focused on it.

It's 24:1, but I'm sure there's a little more oil in than strictly neccessary.

I changed the gear oil out and have checked it a few times after use and haven't seen any milky white in the oil. I'll have to check the thermostat but I haven't had any issues with it overheating so far.

Any idea what all this white oily foam is? Anything I should be concerned about?

Compression is hovering right around 70, only was able to warm it up for a few minutes, as soon as I try to reduce the choke or any of the controls it tends to sputter and kick off. I'd like to say yes, my plugs are gapped at .30 but I'm not sure how to measure the spark itself.

Hi guys, anyone have any pictures, or willing to take some, of the throttle settings on the 1962 10 hp evinrude sportswin? Model number is 10024A. I ended up picking up one yesterday and still runs pretty well after new spark plugs. It seems to have a bit of a weird issue. The throttle settings...

Thank you so much!

Went to go look at what appears to be a 9.6 hp Viking today. It's one of the ones made by Chrysler in 1970. Hard to tell with most of the motor painted over or scratched up but the tiller handle, cowl shape and badge on the front lines up. The guy claimed it ran dry last time he used it, but...