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That is most likely an isolator. The center wire should go to the Alternator

Same here, your TN and I'm KY and if it gets to cold I'm not going outside unless needed

"Normally" Things that draw current when Bat switch is off are keep alive voltages to stereo, motor (new ones), Mercathode (don't know what VP calls it) and like you said bilge pumps when running. If you have a fridge this might be bypassed directly but in most cases it's not

Sorry my bad missed that point So your planis to spray and crank with each cylinder? Spray in cylinder, crank motor and spray next. If that's the case ok, what ever you want to do

There are sensor inside the intake MAP, Temp, and others depending on model. The fogging oil will coat the sensors and cause them to measure incorrectly and or fail And a catalyst motor could even worst

As Bt mentioned if MPI do not direct fog

The muffs go on each side of the drive, if there are other ports they will be on the nose cone of the drive. These would be covered with tape

The Y/B is a ground

The ALT has 3 legs Output Sense Excite The Output is connected direct to Bat The Sense is connected to the motor electrical to measure what sensors are seeing The excite is the purple wire that is energized when key is turned ON If sense does not see what output sees it increases voltage until...

They have been around for years, they just keep changing their names. I forget what they were called when I bought one so many years ago. I would look at local machine shops, local junk yards to send to machine shop, use Michigan motors or even check if local GM dealer to see if they can get...

Yes, sorry but I made an assumption that folks know to close the water ports that are not covered by the muffs If your issue only happens when on a hose than this would be your issue. Put some duct tape over the forward holes

It needs to be in the water for the bubbles test. A hose will bring in it's on bubbles

There is a bad connection feeding the sense leg on the ALT, and this is why your measuring 16V at it. The 16V is enough to boil your Bat

Behind the helm is a good place to look. Would also pull the engine connector apart, those pins inside will corrode. Pulled an old one apart years ago and had to cut the plug out and solder all the wires together, they were bad inside

Yes that's my understanding, @Scott Danforth mentions the fitting quite often

Things look good Being a VP check the fitting on the outdrive, it's plastic and can Crack. Could put a short piece of clear hose between pump and thermostat to see if bubbles are seen

Not ready for that yet, only hurts a little now and then. Friend had both his replaced maybe 8 years ago and he needs them done again. Bummer

yes

The newer plastic transom fittings connected to lube hose are known to crack, brass ones almost never had an issue

Understand your caution, spent a small fortune and don't want anything going wrong after first season. I also agree they should be auto drain because otherwise there would be issues all over the net and no one would have the OB.