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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    10 hp maximum.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I just don't want to end up redoing the transom in the original configuration to have the same problem with transom flex. Can you elaborate on the flat stock you mentioned in your post?
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I think the boat is actually from the mid 90s. The reason I posted is because even with the 5hp outboard, I was getting a lot of transom flex. I don't want to replace the wood in the same configuration and end up with the same transom flex. That's why I was asking about a transom plate.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    Clamp on.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    These are some up close pictures of the transom wood. The wood is definitely de-laminating. The last one is a picture of the tray after I removed the original wood.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    What do you think of this...
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    Alright, I'll replace the transom wood first. Then probably a water test. I will update this thread with the progress. It sounds like if I need something extra like a knee I can add that later.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I'm really wondering about that. I assume the knee has to be welded in. Is that correct?
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    It is a short shaft motor. I made sure of that when I bought the outboard. It seems like a poor design because of the leverage. The boat is rated for a 10 hp max outboard. I can't imagine putting that much power to that transom.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    That actually happened once when I lifted the outboard off the boat. One of the clamps got caught between the top cap and wood and it cracked it when it was lifted. The top cap does need to be replaced.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    That bottom piece is riveted to the back skin of the boat. Is there a way to get rid of it without having to worry about holes/leaks? Taller plywood seems like a better setup. I have never seen another aluminum boat with such thin transom wood like mine.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    Something like this...
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    The flexing made me think I might develop cracks or a break if I went much beyond half throttle. I already have the plywood for new transom wood. I still need to research more about adding a knee, but I'm assuming it would have to be welded in. I also saw an aluminum plate that goes between the...
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I'd consider that. The tray that the current transom wood rests in is riveted to the back aluminum skin of the boat. It seems dicey cutting that tray out without developing leaks.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I purchased the plywood already. I was planning on doing just a transom wood replacement, but don't want to end up in the same boat if this is a design flaw as well/only.
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    Transom replacement or design flaw?

    I have a 12 ft Starcraft, model sl-12 aluminum boat. It has a 5hp four stroke outboard on it. I notice that the transom on it flexes when I get past about 1/2 throttle. Enough that I don't go much more than that. I thought the transom wood was shot. But, as I've started removing screws, and what...
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    91 Mercury 100 won't run past about 1800 rpm

    Is there a way to test if I have two bad coils or a bad high speed stator winding?
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    91 Mercury 100 won't run past about 1800 rpm

    I pulled the spark plugs out and took a picture. These have about 30 minutes of run time on them and were changed after first time I could not get the boat to go above 1800-2000 rpm. Edit: #1 would be the very top spark plug as they sit in the motor.
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    91 Mercury 100 won't run past about 1800 rpm

    The fuel lines are black and look in good condition.
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    91 Mercury 100 won't run past about 1800 rpm

    I just tested the spark. Testing the fuel pump will be next.
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