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  1. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Nova

    Windshield replacement seal was from Taylor Made Systems, profile 8288020. I purchased 8' at $2.27/ft + shipping and handling...but that was also 2014.
  2. MNhunter1

    1984 115hp TOP Switch Box Wiring

    Are the switch blocks grounded via the mounting screws? Do they need a separate ground wire? Any potential harm/damage if I try to start it with the stator wires inverted from top to bottom switch block? Is there a way to determine where they should be aside from the yellow sleeve?
  3. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Nova

    Yes, the rivets should drill out like any other rivet. I don't recall it being difficult to put back together, but I only replaced my bottom seal and bolts, so didn't do a full disassembly. I picked up a replacement seal from somewhere, but I'll need to dig through my parts bin to find it and...
  4. MNhunter1

    1984 115hp TOP Switch Box Wiring

    I have a 1984 TOP I am going through and had a few questions regarding the switch box wiring: 1) Upper switch box ground cable - top coil pack has ground wires running to top left screw of the upper switch box. There was also another ground wire running from this screw to the Neg post on the...
  5. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Nova

    Here are a few pictures from my bow reconstruction:
  6. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Nova

    I'll find the pictures from my Nova bow cap reconstruction and get them posted. I used some foam sill seal from one of the big box stores between the wood and aluminum cap. Just stapled it on with some stainless staples.
  7. MNhunter1

    Transom replacement 1975 18' SS

    Yep, the rivets sticky should give you pretty much everything you need. 3/16's primarily, with 5/32's used on stuff like the gunnel caps. Regarding the cracks in the splashwell/spill well - I'd rivet in some aluminum patches/braces underneath/behind them and fill them with MarineTex. If you...
  8. MNhunter1

    Transom replacement 1975 18' SS

    Do you need to remove the splashwell - no Will it make it much easier if you remove the splashwell - yes Same with the gunnels, you can cut them or bend them up, but removing them makes it a much easier process. I guess it all boils down to how deep of a renovation/restoration you want to get...
  9. MNhunter1

    1983 Starcraft Rivet Work of Art

    Yeah, they made a mess of that with the blind rivets. Depending on what your intentions are (full rebuild vs just getting it on the water), if the concern is isolated to the transom as picture and not widespread throughout the remainder of the hull, it could be worth the effort to repair. I'd...
  10. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    This was my original set up with the pump on one side of the knee brace and the battery on the other. The motor I'll be mounting has the internal trim, so I'll have that space back moving forward. There is only enough room with the tray next to the knee brace for a group 24 battery if you keep...
  11. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    They do add structural stability to both the splashwell and side panels, so I would advise against removal. I cut in some of the big round inspection hatches to allow access to the area behind the panels. This allows you to hide and access all the wiring/cable back there and provides a place to...
  12. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    I used the Rustoleum Universal Alkyd Primer and topcoated with Kush paints. Seems to be a good bond and has held up well in the garage, but I haven't had my boat in the water yet. Kush is very helpful if you call them as well. Good prep is the key with any primer/paint, but especially important...
  13. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    If you plan on replacing your rod holders/braces, I'm happy to send you the ones I had made before deciding to go with Starboard. 3/4" ACX ply sealed with 2 part epoxy. I never got around to finishing them up with the sanding and painting, but they are all cut to fit and ready for finishing.
  14. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    I always trash the deck joiners and use doublers to secure the different sections together, just need to remain mindful of the stringer placements. For steering, I replaced mine with a Seastar NFB 4.2
  15. MNhunter1

    1966 Starcraft Holiday Interior Work

    I've seen both, one continuous piece that wraps around the bow, and two separate pieces that terminate at the bow under the cap. I've always re-used the inserts, never had to install new. they rivet to the channel at each end termination and sometimes are a bear to stretch/pull to line up with...
  16. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    You could still remove the splashwell and leave the transom in. I guess it depends on how thorough you want to get with everything. If the decking is in need, I'd be willing to bet your transom is no longer at 100%. Now would be the time to do it, but it all depends on what your timeline and end...
  17. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

  18. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    Here are some pictures of those individual panels from painting. You can see many of the holes and lips where the panels are secured.
  19. MNhunter1

    82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

    The only solids are the ones attaching those lower side braces(below the rod holders) to the side of the hull. The flat panels behind them, along with those supports under the splashwell, are blind rivets and screws. No solids, no welding. They have screws into the deck, blind rivets into that...
  20. MNhunter1

    115hp 2 stroke on a Stracraft Mariner 21 ft?

    I think you'll be just fine with a 115hp on a 21' Mariner. They are not heavy hulls and the old 115hp 2-strokes are much lighter than the current 4-strokes. Prop it correctly for your needs and you'll be just fine. I have a 115hp sitting here waiting to go on my 18' MR and its the max rating...
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