Gents,
After almost 7 months of off-hours work, I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have a few more details to suss out before I can button everything up, most of which revolve around the Sterndrive.
First, the u-joint yoke shaft. I had to hack the original in half to pull the sterndrive. It's the newer (i.e. post-bulletin) yoke shaft that has the retaining rings in the bore of yoke (i.e. they are not integral to the spiders). I've already (naively) ordered the previous non-compatible yoke (VP 3850815) and had to send it back. The news I'm getting from the local dealer is that I have to buy the complete u-joint assembly at $400. Is there a supplier who provides just the newer style yoke?
Secondarily, I'm not comfortable using the original studs that bolt the coupler to the crankshaft. I'm also not comfortable being robbed by VP at the tune of 6 X $14~ per stud assembly (stud and nut). I measured the UHL of the installed stud/nut assembly (which I removed without having to disassemble the nut first) and ordered ARP bolts of the same thread / UHL. Sound OK? I was planning on using ARP thread lube on the thread/under head of these bolts, should I go with a Loctite threadlocker on the threads instead? Should I set up a dial indicator fixture to check concentricity of the coupler once installed (indicate off of an assumed lead-in chamfer on the spline tube?) - and if so, what's an acceptable level of runout?
Thirdly, I'd really like to test-fire my newly rebuilt engine outside of the boat. I rebuilt the engine myself under the watchful eye of a gracious local machinist, but I still rebuilt the engine myself. In other words, there is a strong likelihood that there could be a few things that need to be addressed. If not, it'd still be much easier to retorque exhaust man, intake man, head bolts after a heat cycle. Trouble is, I know my wiring harness is not long enough. Do you think it's reasonable to run jumper (as in small electric wire, not battery cable) between the terminals on the main wiring harness plugs? Assuming reasonable precautions (water hose, fire extinguisher, plenty of open space), is this a bad idea?
I have plenty of photos if it will help.
Thank you all for your time and help - it's been of tremendous value.
Joe
After almost 7 months of off-hours work, I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have a few more details to suss out before I can button everything up, most of which revolve around the Sterndrive.
First, the u-joint yoke shaft. I had to hack the original in half to pull the sterndrive. It's the newer (i.e. post-bulletin) yoke shaft that has the retaining rings in the bore of yoke (i.e. they are not integral to the spiders). I've already (naively) ordered the previous non-compatible yoke (VP 3850815) and had to send it back. The news I'm getting from the local dealer is that I have to buy the complete u-joint assembly at $400. Is there a supplier who provides just the newer style yoke?
Secondarily, I'm not comfortable using the original studs that bolt the coupler to the crankshaft. I'm also not comfortable being robbed by VP at the tune of 6 X $14~ per stud assembly (stud and nut). I measured the UHL of the installed stud/nut assembly (which I removed without having to disassemble the nut first) and ordered ARP bolts of the same thread / UHL. Sound OK? I was planning on using ARP thread lube on the thread/under head of these bolts, should I go with a Loctite threadlocker on the threads instead? Should I set up a dial indicator fixture to check concentricity of the coupler once installed (indicate off of an assumed lead-in chamfer on the spline tube?) - and if so, what's an acceptable level of runout?
Thirdly, I'd really like to test-fire my newly rebuilt engine outside of the boat. I rebuilt the engine myself under the watchful eye of a gracious local machinist, but I still rebuilt the engine myself. In other words, there is a strong likelihood that there could be a few things that need to be addressed. If not, it'd still be much easier to retorque exhaust man, intake man, head bolts after a heat cycle. Trouble is, I know my wiring harness is not long enough. Do you think it's reasonable to run jumper (as in small electric wire, not battery cable) between the terminals on the main wiring harness plugs? Assuming reasonable precautions (water hose, fire extinguisher, plenty of open space), is this a bad idea?
I have plenty of photos if it will help.
Thank you all for your time and help - it's been of tremendous value.
Joe
