1/2 " ply for floor???

klos

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 18, 2005
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Just needs some input on what to use for the floor, 20' Baja I/O.
The original design used 1/2 plywood for the entire floor.
I've read some posts on this topic and mose people use 3/4". I'm wondering if 1/2" would be ok if I added more layers of glass. Also how many layers of mat and biaxial should I use to add streangth. Thanks.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
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Aug 20, 2001
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4,163
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

3/4 is overkill and only adds weight. If it used 1/2 before, it can use it again. 1/2 is pretty much the standard....
 

Bondo

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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

Ayuh,........ I Agree...... 1/2" is Plenty,.... Especially with some Glass,+ Resin....
 

Bondo

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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I use Dry P/T Plywood........
 

crunch

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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

A-A, A-B, B-B, A-C.... A-A solid core... 3 ply?
5 Ply?

There are a million grades of plywood out there, I should know, I graded them for 5 years...

I'm using 1/2 inch CDX on my roof sheathing at 2' centers (5ply, C face, D core and back) A bit springy at 2' centers but we only have a 20 lb. roof load here, but you wouldn't want to used that for flooring.

I'm thinking more like A-A or B-B solid core ( core has no voids... knots), but look at each sheet along the edge... if you see a gap more than 1/8 th inch between the core layup or face, pass it by.

Alot of times you can get shop panels for really cheap if you know what to look for (most lumber yards will let you go thru their stock if you don't tie up their people)...

Whatever, always look at the side of the grade you want, large voids, and small voids stacked can make a piece of plywood as brittle as a match stick.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
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Aug 20, 2001
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

AB is fine, it is better than the wood that was originally used when the boat was first built often times. Marine ply would be optimal, just due to the greater amount of plies and the fact that the plies are laid at 45 degree angles to each other verses 90 degrees on regular ply. Again, for a boat floor, AB and proper fiberglassing techiques with either poly or epoxy will give you a floor that will last longer than you need it to.
 

guywithboat

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 19, 2006
Messages
101
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I used 1/4 inch in my 15.5 ft long vessel. I reinforsed it on both sides with resin and used SCREWS. It works great. I emphize screws, I have seen people using nails, don't waste the time and money.
 

klos

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 18, 2005
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

What about just glassing the floor panels down and not using any screws or nails.
 

epresutti

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Aug 14, 2001
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465
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

klos,

I used thickened epoxy as a bed for my deck and then held everything down with a lot of weight until everything set. In some places I used some temporary screws which I removed later and filled the holes before I glassed the top. To thicken the epoxy I used chopped glass. No screws at all when i was all done.

Polyester resin is not a good glue, so if you plan not to use any screws make sure you are using a marine grade glue or epoxy. Ship Shape TV Just did an episode on this, there are some new compounds out there that are epoxy based that are great for gluing things together, like the deck to the hull or the gunnel cap to the hull.

I like the idea of not having any screws that could potentially vibrate, create a gap and give water a place to penetrate. If you are going to screw it down, put a dab of 5200 on each screw, it will never come apart and won't leak.

Peace.

Ed.
 

oncebitten

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Jun 28, 2006
Messages
104
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I used 1/2" on my boat, and it's plenty sturdy as long as you have adequately tight stringer spacing. In fact, I wish I'd used 3/8", but it's too late now, and I wouldn't go that thin unless you are sure you have the supporting structure underneath to make it happen.

I've built and modified boats using the stitch-n-glue method. In this method, you first add cleats to the stringers (unless your stringers are already wide enough to support the floor, which may be the case in a production boat), then you use thickened epoxy (epoxy mixed with wood flour works excellent) and spread it on the stringers to bed the floor and that's it, You can temporarily screw it down to make sure you get good adhesion, but some weights are just as good. Finally, the tough work starts, some fillet and fiberglass taping along the outside seams and then some fairing compound to blend it all in to the hull and then primer and paint.

Here's a tutorial, if you backtrack, there's other great tutorials at this site too.

http://bateau2.com/content/view/58/28/
 

qaztwo

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 26, 2004
Messages
384
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I also used 1/2 cdx. Bounded to the hull and stringers and topped with 2 layers a 24oz roving over it. Its bullet proof, have droped anchors, scuba tanks, and other things on it and not a mark.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Jan 13, 2006
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6,237
Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

If you want a truly solid floor, just put 8lb foam under it. 8) I still am amazed @ how solid the floor is in a boat that i have almost finished.

Recently i purchased another boat to tide me over for the season, and i guess ive looked @ boat's from every mfg there is here in Orygun, not one had a floor this solid

I know this was probably overkill and it did cost 250 to do it, but the strength,,,,,,,,,,, well it was worth it.

Just a opinion.
 

oncebitten

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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I have pour-in foam under my sole in two chambers per side, but not down the center, which I left open for drainage. You're absolutely right, it makes the floor as stiff as if it were sitting on concrete.

(Mine is a home-built 13' garvey hull, so the stringers and frames make an egg-crate structure like this #) All the egg-crate chambers, even those filled with foam, have drainage holes drilled in them so that everything drains into the center chamber and back to the motor well for easy pumping.

I used 1/2" Meranti marine ply for my floor, but I think BCX would be fine (b side up). First, make sure you give it two coats of epoxy resins to encase it in epoxy so the water doesn't destroy it. I then bedded it in epoxy glue as I said, then used thickened epoxy around the outside edges to create smooth fillets (transitions between the sole panel and the hull) on which to lay 4" woven fiberglass tape. This tape was wet-out with epoxy resin and placed all around the edges.

Next, I used a fairing compound of epoxy mixed with silca/microballoon mix to blend the tape into the hull form. Finally, after much sanding, prime with an epoxy primer (more waterproofing) and then paint. In the priming process, you can add non-slip additives to the primer if you want. You can do shapes by masking off the areas you want to be textured, and those you want smooth.

Got to be sure you prime and paint over the epoxy, or if it's bright finished, make sure your glossy coats have UV inhibitors in it, epoxy doesn't like UV- it breaks down.
 

klos

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

Is two layers of 14oz biaxial enough to coat both sides?
Using polyester
 

oncebitten

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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I'm definately not a polyester fan. I'm sure someone else, who is, will reply. I wouldn't coat the floor with biax in any case, well maybe if you're using poly resins. You'll have a textured floor when you're done. To get a finished look, you'll have to fair the entire floor. Unless you like the texture of biax telegraphing through, as a sort of non-slip. You'll also be adding weight to the boat without any gain in strength.

I think just saturating the wood in resins to waterproof it should be enough (how waterproof is polyester resin though?). I would just tape the edges with biax or even woven 4" fiberglass tape. That combined with a good glue down job and you shouldn't have any problems. IMO.
 

BillP

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Aug 10, 2002
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

If you want to beef it up with thicker ply,..3/4" ply weighs approx 25lbs more per sheet than 1/2" ply. Not enough to make much difference considering the strength increase.

The ply is structural so you only need glass for ding and weather protection....a single layer of 6-10oz cloth is plenty for most trailer boats.
 

oncebitten

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Jun 28, 2006
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

Hmm... I see what you're saying, but...

20' boat x 4' width of ply per sheet = 5 sheets? 5 sheets x 25lbs/sheet = 125lbs extra weight. Is that one more inch of imersion? What's the PPI? Does draft matter? Is it going to effect the COG and make the boat a little squirly at top speed? It's surely equivilent to another person. How much are you paying for your fuel? If the original floor was 1/2", why beef it up? I've seen guys complain about an extra 20lbs between 2-stroke and 4-stroke motors, this is 75-125lbs. difference for a floor. Add epoxy and glass over the entire surface and you've just added another 25-30 lbs.
 

klos

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Oct 18, 2005
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Re: 1/2

Re: 1/2

I definatly don't need the extra weight. three years ago (before the prodject began) this boat had a hard time getting on plane with 4 people and a full tank of gas (50 gallons). this thing sat high and dry for two and a half years and I have pulled out aprox. 150 pounds of water loged floatation foam. That should help.
 
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