110 hp overheating after storage

[dsujen]

I have a 1986 110hp vro evinrude mod.#e11omlcdc ser.#r1308421. I live in nj and it ran great all season with no problem. I stored it as I usually do: Fogged the engine, stabilized the fuel, Drained the gear case and filled it fresh and covered it for about 5 months. I unwrapped it today and changed the fuel/water separater, cleaned the spark plugs, cleaned the factory inline fuel filter. I put on the muffs and it started right up. The water pump indicator was shooting out strong as normal. I ran it for about 5 minutes when I heard a buzzing noise coming from the front of the boat. It was the overheat warning horn on the controls. I figured the horn circut was malfunctioning cause the water pump indicator was still pumping strong. I shut the motor off and touched the cylinders and water jacket and almost burned my hand. It was very hot. I took out the spark plugs and hot air puffed out. I waited about 10 mins. and turned on the key without starting it and the horn sounded indicating that it was still too hot. Waited about ten more mins. Turned the key, no horn sound, so I started it. Ran fine. While running, I grabbed the thermostat hoses and could pinch them closed easily. It felt like no water was going through the hoses. But if that's the case, why does the hose coming off the water jacket shoot out its' normal stream? Last year I installed a new non vro fuel pump, Water pump assembly, and new thermostats. It ran great all season. I flush the motor after ever trip and before to make sure everything works. What's wrong?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

the impeller charges the total system, the pee stream is part of that, the thermostats are the last in the system. if they don't open then it runs hot, as the only water circulating is the water coming out the pee stream, which is not enough to cool the engine. you did the water pump last year, but left 20 year old thermostats.

 

[dsujen]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

I forgot to mention that I installed brand new thermostats last year as well. While waiting for a reply, I took the coolant hoses off at the block side and started the motor and water flowed out at full capacity. I think it might be the therms. are stuck. I can't believe after 1 season they don't work properly, especially since I always flush the system. But it looks as though that's the problem unless I'm missing something. I filled the hoses with pb blaster penitrating fluid. I hope this unsticks the therms. I'd hate to have to cut a big chunk out of the engine shroud again to get to the therms. To install the new therms. last year I used a jig saw to cut a 6"x3" piece out of the engine shroud to gain access. The previous owner said I don't need therms. He pulled the originals out and put the cover on without replacing the therms. I figured if the factory has em in then I should put them in. Plus I fish during the cold season and I know that a cold 2 stroke engine fouls plugs. I can't believe that you have to remove the power head to get to the therms. Last time I tried to remove a power head was an old yamaha 4 cyl. Couldn't get the long ss. bolts out of the aluminum exhaust tube. Tried heat and even cut a slot in the aluminum. A marine mechaninc told me to drill through the bolts where the exhaust tube meets the engine shroud. Did that and went right through the water jacket. That was the end of that motor. Instead of doing that to mine I cut out the panel and mig welded it back together. This time, if the penetrating oil trick doesn't work, I'm going to fabricate a removable waterproof access panel.What are some opinions on not putting the therms. back in. Maybe the old timer I bought it off of was right. He said the therms. are problematic and not nessesary. Also is there a way to pevent this problem from re occuring?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

you must have a Bubble Back. people have been known to use a hole saw, and cut 2 holes in the lower cowling, to get to the thermo's. then use those round rubber disc that kind of snaps in.

 

[dsujen]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

I have the service manual and it says you must remove the power head to change the therms. I'm pretty sure it's a bubble back. How could they malfunction after one year of use? How do I prevent this from happening again?

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

As previously stated, the water flows through the block first, then out the thermostat housing. If there is any blockage in that housing it will prevent any good impeller from circulating water through the block. Could be one other problem. There are two small holes in the thermostat valve body. If they plug up, (a common occurrence) they will not let hot water get to the thermostats to cause them to open and will cause an overheat at idle. You may want to tear into the thermostat housing and have a look. You need to run with functioning thermostats and pressure relief valves.

 

[johnson1989]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

YOu cannot estimate just by squeezing them. Pull off one of the tubes and watch for water.

You either have a stuck thermostat or a blockage somewhere. Feel the blocks after the issue occurs and see how hot they are and on which side. THis should help you resolve which side to pull apart first.

I have an 89 110 HP and I was still getting overheat issues on the left bank after replacing the pump and stats. I am not sure if yours is simlar or not but Mine turned out to be swelled Water Deflectors. Here is a link to my issue and it did resolve my over heat

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12478/71197.shtml

Report back what you find out and let us know

Good Luck

 

[johnson1989]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

Also to add, you dont have to cut to replace these. Its a pain in the azz// Havin two people does help. I did it just by gettin everything together and adding the springs last.

here is a link on how others did it.

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12478/21607.shtml

 

[dsujen]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

I've read something about water deflectors swelling up inside the heads. With my motor running with the thermostat hoses removed water gushes out. Does this eliminate bad water deflectors? My therms are 1 yr. old and worked fine last year.

 

[johnson1989]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

No it does not due to the water runs from the stat housing into the heads. I would take off the head on the side you feel is overheating. Mine had swollen Deflectors and full of crap. Their are two of them , they are like 3 bucks a peice or you can make your own. Proabaly best to pick up a new head gasket or make sure yours is in good shape.

You will need a torqe wrench follow specs in post.

You will need to get gasket sealer - Permatex is the best This will more then likely fix your problem if you aleady repplaced the stats and Water pump.

Ovously your pump is pumping, since you tel tale is working and water out the stat housing. IF you just recently replaced the stats also unlikely they are bad already. Feel each block when the overeheat occours, mine was just left bank. Then you will know which head to remove.

 

[dsujen]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

Just did some tests on the overheating motor. I pulled the coolant hoses off the thermostat housing and ran the motor. It stayed nice and cool as the water flowed out of the block and onto the ground. Ran it for about 5 minutes and no over heat alarm sounded. Positively the therms. aren't working. I did touch all 4 heads around the spark plugs and one head was warmer than the rest. I also felt the water as it circulated through the block before it hit the ground. One side has warmer water than the other, but both are relatively luke warm to cool. I cut the hole in the engine shroud again to gain access to the therms. There was some crud around everthing. I guess it was enough to prevent the system from working. I lit a match under each therm. after I cleaned them off and they both opened. I'm going to put the therm. housing back on without the therms or those plastic things with the springs. I hear the old motor will run just fine without the therms. Any opinions on that?

 

[Solittle]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

Those V4s will run without t-stats but not all that well. Also they do not idle well unless up to operating temp.

Replace the deflectors if you have not done that already.

By the way you can replace the t-stats on the bubble backs without pulling the powerhead or cutting the pan. It is a bit of a pain and I can explain how if you like - - it is too late now.

I run a pair of 1987 110s.

 

[dsujen]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

what do you mean not all that well? Will I lose acceleration or top speed? Will I have trouble starting the motor? What will happen if I run without the therms. Also, why should I replace the deflectors if water seems to be flowing through the block good?

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: 110 hp overheating after storage

Hello from Osan Korea,

I wanted to say that I installed a new thermostat in my 88 hp Evinrude and what I did to get to those three 3/8" or 7/16" bolts that hold the thermostat housing together is I had to remove the lower cowl underneath the outside right below the powerhead or above the exhaust outlets outside and at the top of the upper midsection and then I had the room I needed to get those bolts out using a boxed in wrench still kinda hard but not as nearly bad as with the lower small cowling off. Hope this helps you out and you understand the instructions. Let me know.