115 Johnson- Milky Nasty Exhaust Question

Charlie5653

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Hello Folks,
dropped lower unit to put in new seals and I'm finding this milky nasty sludge pretty much everywhere. Is this a head gasket or is it possibly just from leaking a little lower unit oil ?? 20180917_130346.jpg
 

Bosunsmate

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Milky normally means gear oil, check the level and oil condition by undoing the flat slot screw on the LU
 

Charlie5653

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After further inspection, I "think" it's just the lower exhaust gasket. The motor has been spending a lot of time setting in the test tank and starting on occasion.
The majority of all the muck is confined to the lower unit, looking up into the exhaust cavity from the lower side the muck disappears about 2 inches up from the gasket.

hoping this stands to reason?
 

Charlie5653

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Thanks for your time Bos and help,

I drained before dropping L/U -- no water or discolor but was a bit low after 4 hrs on the water. I saw all the mikly stuff in the l/u behind the prop and could not find a spring on the outer seal . Thats when I pulled the lower apart. Yoke is out and old seals are out. Awaiting my seal kit.

I just freaked out when I dropped the l/u and saw all that nasty nasty!!! plugs look ok and compression is not too bad...

Cheers and Thanks again
 

Bosunsmate

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My pleasure, good luck with it, spend your time doing it carefully and itl be a job you can rely on and be proud of
 

F_R

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That gunk is because you have been starting it in a test tank "on occasion". It is not gear oil. It is the oil that you put in the gas. Every morsel of that oil goes through the engine where some is burned (smoke) and the rest goes out the exhaust, where it mixes and emulsifies with the cooling water that has already done it's job. Running it the way you are doing does not warm it up enough to burn that stuff off, so there it is for you to look at and worry about. Stop worrying and don't fix stuff that isn't broke.
 

racerone

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You oil in gearcase " was a little low " ----So how many ounces came out and how many ounces are you going to put back in?
 

Charlie5653

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Guys I keep water running is the test tank so any 2 cycle oil that dont burn off will simply roll out of the tank, floating on top.

The seals were bad as someone here suggested a leak dwn test in the lower unit (this told me there was surly a problem). The seals under the waterpump were leaking pretty bad and the shaft seal had lost its spring.

The seal problem is all fix and holding wonderful.

I'm back in the test tank today....

Someone also mentioned looking at the spark plugs for indication of the missing problem. Their all wet, kinda black , all cylinders look the same, This tell me the miss is a rich problem at idle??

I'm taking the plug gap back to .040 from .030 and will report back soon today.


Thanks for all your help guys. I could have never gotten this far without you guys !!!
I know were getting close !!
 

Charlie5653

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racer, I filled it back from the bottom until it was running out the top. let it rest for 10 mins or so and pumped up again. I did this 3 times until as soon as i hit the pump 1 time it was running out the top hole. Then closed it up....
 

Bosunsmate

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yes a missing spring means the seal has failed. They do well considering how thin they are.
Check you get a spark jumping a 7/16 gap at idle.
 

Charlie5653

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Also I purchased a dva adaptor for my multi-meter. I wanted to check the voltage from the power pack to each coil. Before I do this I would appreciate a little guidance?

My thought would be to remove all plugs? ground the 3 cylinder plug wires that im not testing? then remove the power pack wire feeding the coil that I want to test for voltage? Connect the dva to that power pack ring and ground the meter? set meter to 1000v AC (and HOLD) crank engine with full strong battery ?
 

F_R

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I believe you check the DVA voltage with the coil wires connected to the power pack. An option is to connect a special load resistor to the PP instead of the coil. Either way, you do not check it with the PP disconnected from a load.

And it is a DC voltage (pulses), which the DVA holds for you to observe.
 

Charlie5653

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Thanks FR, yea, I've watched a couple utube folks using a dva. I'm still not comfortable and will keep searching to learn before I even think about hooking it up !!! KABOOM !!!
 

Charlie5653

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BoSun, I am not getting a 7/16 spark @ idle. Did you mean for me to put the spark tester in line ?
 

Charlie5653

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That what I thought Bos, coils are good I think, ordered powerpak. will update after I get it installed. Thanks Again..
 

Charlie5653

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I believe you check the DVA voltage with the coil wires connected to the power pack. An option is to connect a special load resistor to the PP instead of the coil. Either way, you do not check it with the PP disconnected from a load.

And it is a DC voltage (pulses), which the DVA holds for you to observe.

Are you sure it's DC? everything I'm finding tells me it's AC @ this point?
 

F_R

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Don't believe everything I say. I'll concede it is AC as soon as somebody explains to me how a capacitor stores AC.
 

Charlie5653

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Haha, Well your a lot smarter than I. I simply want to ensure I put my tester on the right current because I dont know, It might go KABOOM !!

Again, Thanks for all your time / help / concern / and ability. It really does inspire/help me to get this thing running again.
 
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