120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

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rich_kildow

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I found the little piece that goes inside the drain plug and it is mangled. Looks like whoever had it apart last wasn't careful with it, and I think it was sitting just right so that it worked properly. There is no way to get that to work.

Now the question. Is there a source for parts for the valve body for this motor ('90 120hp Force), or do I need to replace the whole valve body. If the latter is the case, am I better off spending the extra $150 or so and getting the entire pump/valve body/ reservoir assembly? Thanks,

Rich
 
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RRitt

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

rich_kildow said:
I found the little piece that goes inside the drain plug and it is mangled. Looks like whoever had it apart last wasn't careful with it, and I think it was sitting just right so that it worked properly. There is no way to get that to work.

Now the question. Is there a source for parts for the valve body for this motor ('90 120hp Force), or do I need to replace the whole valve body. If the latter is the case, am I better off spending the extra $150 or so and getting the entire pump/valve body/ reservoir assembly? Thanks,

Rich
Click to expand...


if you can find a new motor+valve body for $150 then you should jump all over it.

some people have had luck rebuilding their valve bodies using lawn mower parts. I don't think there is any other source for the individual owner. You may find some parts in a hydraulic supply house or a local fastenal but I seriously doubt you will find everything, much less of the correct materials.

Here is the way it works. Your trim motor will last 100 years or until water gets inside. Whichever comes first. Since the seals inside your pump are getting old and starting to let oil seep past then it is a fair bet that the seals on your motor are in similar condition. You can not "peek" inside the motor without breaking the seal so you have to inspect the seams, gaskets, and washers. If there are any signs of rust then the sooner you rebuild it the less likely you are to face a 100+ repair. Honestly, there is a way to peek into the motor. You have to buy a #10 bonded sealing washer. Lift one of the two cover bolts. Never, ever loosen both. One and only one should be loosened. If you crack the seal then you are into a rebuild. so loosen one bolt and lift it out. Inspect for any signs of water, oil, rust, or corrosive residue. If you see any then it is time for rebuild. If not then put bolt back with a new sealing washer.
 
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rich_kildow

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

Thanks for the tips. I'm looking at a brand new valve body for about $225. I'm not willing to gamble on a $150 used one, which is all I'm finding on ebay and forums, when I can get a warranty for a bit more. I'd love to take this chance to put on a CMC PT-130, but I think the steering is going to be a headache there. I'll have to save that for when (if) I upgrade to hydraulic steering.
 
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RRitt

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

rich_kildow said:
Thanks for the tips. I'm looking at a brand new valve body for about $225. I'm not willing to gamble on a $150 used one, which is all I'm finding on ebay and forums, when I can get a warranty for a bit more. I'd love to take this chance to put on a CMC PT-130, but I think the steering is going to be a headache there. I'll have to save that for when (if) I upgrade to hydraulic steering.
Click to expand...

fwiw - on a 120HP you're better off with an original prestolite. Mr. Chinaman needs a few more years before I'll consider him of equal quality to original. The problem is finding one from a small engine that is in good enough condition.
 
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RRitt

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

to the best of my knowledge only one factory in the world is making new valve bodies and they are all identical regardless of what name is on the box.

Motors are different since the brushes, caps, frames and windings can be used in many different designs. All a company really needs to make force motors is a compatible armature shaft. Heck, if you had a metal lathe and made custom couplings you could use almost any waterproof trim motor. That said, ARCO seems to make the best domestic. They never had mechanical design problems like API and they never used inferior materials but their finish was nothing more than yellow zinc. They rusted almost as quickly on the inside as the outside. I think they started painting the inside of their motors and that made them the clear leader. If you shoot the outside with a nice 2k paint when it is new then it will be as good as the original.
 
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rich_kildow

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

One last question for you. I'm seeing a few different designs of valve bodies that are labeled as compaitble. When looking at it from the top (so you see the 2 tubes and 4 bolts) I have seen ones with:

- low (1/2"-ish) tubes, 5 bolts, and a snap ring plug
- low tubes, 4 bolts, and a snap ring plug
- high tubes (2"-ish), one of those tubes plugged with a threaded rod and nut, 4 bolts, and an allen head plug.

Mine is the latter with an allen head...does it matter which of these I purchase, or are the all compaitble just with different castings? I was told it doesn't matter by a place which had one in stock, but want to double check.
 
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RRitt

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

some of the short post models have higher gearing and some motors might have trouble generating enough torque under adverse conditions. The allen key is easier to service but not quite as durable on the big engines. The best pump would be a short post model with thin gears, retaining rings, and needle style regulator valves. If you want to go for the brass ring then look for one with a lobed check valve and manual release cam.

If you found a new one with SS retaining rings then it won't be made from Chinese aluminum. You should buy it.
 
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rich_kildow

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Re: 120hp Force slow tilt/trim issues

I've got a line on a complete trim unit from a 35hp Force that is in working condition. It is about 1/5th the price of replacing the valve body, so if it will work, I'm going to try it.

Will the valve body be the same? I noticed that the unit only uses the bottom and front port off the valve body, so I assume it was hooked up for tilt only, not for tilt/trim.

Will removing the two plugs that are in the trim range holes and plugging in my lines enable this to work for my engine?
 
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