Re: 1250 waterpump impeller replacement
I recommend getting the impeller kit, not just the impeller. This way you are getting new gaskets and everything except the two seal, which you could replace them as well. Or, you could get the entire waterpump kit, it would cost less than getting the impeller kit and the seals seperately, plus it would make the process easier. Considering the cost of buying a new equivelant motor, I think it is money well spent. Anyway, here is how I did it, the experts can correct me if I did something wrong.<br /><br />1. Place throttle/shift into forward, and tilt into trailering position.<br /><br />2. Remove the little anti-torque/sacrificing anode (fin above prop). Requires a 9mm or equivelant standard allen key. Mark position of anode before removeing.<br /><br />3. There are five nuts and one bolt that holds the lower unit on, the bolt is in the cavity where the sacrificial anode is bolted, the rest are readily accessable, except for two which can't be fully removed until the rest are out and the lower unit can be dropped enough to allow room to unthread these two nuts the rest of the way. You will see what I mean.<br /><br />4. At this point, simply pull the lower unit out, and place in a well supported position. <br /><br />5. Remove O-ring at top of driveshaft, and rubber bushing at base of driveshaft.<br /><br />6. Remove plastic flush plug on port side of housing, you can't miss it.<br /><br />7. Unbolt the waterpump, and remove. It will be in there pretty good, and it is plastic, so be very carefull unless you bought an entire replacement, then you can just rip the thing out. You will take the top of the waterpump off first, that will expose the impeller, which will end up coming off with the pump. Pay attention to the location of the key that interfaces the driveshaft to the impeller. Mess that deal up and the waterpump won't work. It is very self explanetory as you take it apart.<br /><br />While doing all of this, remember to not turn or even touch the shift shaft, or misery will ensue. A little hint though, if the shift shaft does get turned, just turn it counter clockwise as far as it will easily turn, this is why you have to have the throttle/shift in forward, in case things get fubar and you can default back and it will still go together.<br /><br />Assembly, of course, is opposite of removal. Good luck...
