Sidhewynder
Cadet
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 17
Hi Everyone,
Recently I acquired a 15HP Gamefisher inexpensively because it wouldn't start. Model 225 581508, Serial OE144599. If I read the boards correctly this makes it a 1996 by Force. The gentleman I got the engine from said there wasn't any spark and he just didn't want to deal with it.
I got it home, pulled the flywheel and cleaned the coil faces and magnets on the flywheel. While the fly wheel was off I cleaned the carb, replaced all the old fuel line, and put in new plugs. I replaced the flywheel and after some experimental pulls I did have spark. Its varies -white and somewhat thin to white/blue, but spark none-the-less. After hooking up new gas and putting the lower unit in water it won't start. In fact it won't even try to start. With that spark, I wasn't expecting it to run at peak performance, but I did expect some kind of chugging at least. So I pulled the new plugs (Autolite) and found no spark at all. I put the old plugs back in (NGK) same gap as Autolites and it had spark again. So I tried with the NGK plugs installed. Still no chugging. I even went so far as to squirt a little starting fluid in the carb (bad idea, no oil), but I wanted to see if it would at least try to start - nothing.
At this point I'm not quite sure how to proceed.
Other facts/Questions:
1) What is the correct plug and gap? From research (Force Forum) Champion L82YC, translates to NGK BPR7HS. Gap is either .030" or .035" (I've seen both). Is this correct?
2) I acquired a stator plate with coils from an early '90s 9.9-15HP motor. Gentleman said spark was good. Looks like same coils, but the ground point is at a different location on my stator plate and the ends of the wires are different (my coils - bullet terminals, new coils - spade terminals) The stator plate is different. The edge of my stator is cut at an angle to allow the advance arm to clear, the new plate is round. How difficult would it be to switch coils? Can I just extend the ground wire to where my old wire connects on the existing stator plate and change wire ends or is it more difficult than that? What about breaking that black sealent the seals the one screw head on the coil body? Would it be better to use a saws-all and try and cut the new stator plate at an angle so it fits my motor?
3) Why would NGK's fire, but Autolites not? Same gap.
4) With the NGKs sparking shouldn't the motor try and start? At least chug a bit? I checked the spark plug wires thinking it might be grounding somewhere when the plugs were seated but not grounding when I was holding them to check spark. No bare areas.
5) How do I proceed at this point? What would be the next trouble shooting steps?
As you can tell, I'm not really a mechanic, just a tinkerer.
I'm also posting this on the Force side, my apologies for the duplication but since its a Force engine I thought I'd get more hits.
Thanks!!
Recently I acquired a 15HP Gamefisher inexpensively because it wouldn't start. Model 225 581508, Serial OE144599. If I read the boards correctly this makes it a 1996 by Force. The gentleman I got the engine from said there wasn't any spark and he just didn't want to deal with it.
I got it home, pulled the flywheel and cleaned the coil faces and magnets on the flywheel. While the fly wheel was off I cleaned the carb, replaced all the old fuel line, and put in new plugs. I replaced the flywheel and after some experimental pulls I did have spark. Its varies -white and somewhat thin to white/blue, but spark none-the-less. After hooking up new gas and putting the lower unit in water it won't start. In fact it won't even try to start. With that spark, I wasn't expecting it to run at peak performance, but I did expect some kind of chugging at least. So I pulled the new plugs (Autolite) and found no spark at all. I put the old plugs back in (NGK) same gap as Autolites and it had spark again. So I tried with the NGK plugs installed. Still no chugging. I even went so far as to squirt a little starting fluid in the carb (bad idea, no oil), but I wanted to see if it would at least try to start - nothing.
At this point I'm not quite sure how to proceed.
Other facts/Questions:
1) What is the correct plug and gap? From research (Force Forum) Champion L82YC, translates to NGK BPR7HS. Gap is either .030" or .035" (I've seen both). Is this correct?
2) I acquired a stator plate with coils from an early '90s 9.9-15HP motor. Gentleman said spark was good. Looks like same coils, but the ground point is at a different location on my stator plate and the ends of the wires are different (my coils - bullet terminals, new coils - spade terminals) The stator plate is different. The edge of my stator is cut at an angle to allow the advance arm to clear, the new plate is round. How difficult would it be to switch coils? Can I just extend the ground wire to where my old wire connects on the existing stator plate and change wire ends or is it more difficult than that? What about breaking that black sealent the seals the one screw head on the coil body? Would it be better to use a saws-all and try and cut the new stator plate at an angle so it fits my motor?
3) Why would NGK's fire, but Autolites not? Same gap.
4) With the NGKs sparking shouldn't the motor try and start? At least chug a bit? I checked the spark plug wires thinking it might be grounding somewhere when the plugs were seated but not grounding when I was holding them to check spark. No bare areas.
5) How do I proceed at this point? What would be the next trouble shooting steps?
As you can tell, I'm not really a mechanic, just a tinkerer.
I'm also posting this on the Force side, my apologies for the duplication but since its a Force engine I thought I'd get more hits.
Thanks!!