150 Black Max question

[DoctorCAD]

1984 150 HP Black Max.<br />1) When starting in hot weather, the enricher circut activates, causing a flooded condition at first start-up. If I manually de-activate the circut, the motor starts up easily. Any way to keep the circut from activating?<br /><br />2) When running on muffs, the telltale water is almost too hot to touch within 30 seconds, whats up with that?<br /><br />3) Any special cleaner to use to clean the outside of the engine? I want to use Simple Green or Gunk or some kind of spray cleaner, just dont want to hurt anything. Lots of residual oil and gasoline crud that gets on everything!<br /><br />4) Which manual is best for a "good mechanic, but never worked on boat motors" kind of guy?<br /><br />Thanks

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 150 Black Max question

1) don't know<br />2) when have you last serviced the water pump, thermostats and poppet valve?<br />3) any are OK<br />4) The Merc OEM manual is the ONLY one to get.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: 150 Black Max question

1) I'm not aware of an automatic enrichener on a Black Max. Push the key to enrich, don't push and it won't.<br />2) What WildeOne said<br />3) Your recommended products would be fine. Simple Green is biodegradable.<br />4) Aftermarket manuals are usually incomplete. Merc manuals aren't too hard to follow, but they're intended for trained techs.

 

[KCLOST]

Re: 150 Black Max question

Are you saying that the enricher on the key switch will not release after you push it in?

 

[LubeDude]

Re: 150 Black Max question

I think that you just think that the enrichment is activating, all in all It sounds like you just need an old fashioned carb bebuild do to the amount of "Crud" you mention. Sounds like your floats are not shutting off like they should causing a mess.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: 150 Black Max question

While the key is pushed in, the enrichener will squirt in a bit of gas. When the key isn't pushed in, it doesn't. There is no automatic shutoff or activation feature that I'm aware of. Cold/hot, idle/wide open...doesn't matter. Push the key and it squirts some gas. Fuel lines just have to have some pressure in them. Even what pressure you squeeze in with the primer bulb is sufficient.<br /><br />Had a customer that had his motor for decades. Always hard to start for him. Always started right up for me. Finally had him start it in front of me. He was pushing the choke button twice, then turning the key. Like on carbed cars where you push the pedal to the floor twice before starting...first to set the choke and squirt some gas, second to squirt some more gas.<br /><br />Most carbed 2-stroke outboards are strictly manually choked (or enrichened). EFI and DFI 2-strokes and most 4-strokes are fully automatic.

 

[DoctorCAD]

Re: 150 Black Max question

I didn't know about the "push on the key" thing.<br />I'm sure that is what the problem is. My last boat was manual choke and pull start.<br /><br />The crud is on the bottom of the motor, no doubt from excess gasoline drizzeling down there. <br /><br />The carbs "LOOK" spotless inside and out, but I know that really isn't a good way to tell if they need refreshing. <br /><br />I have a strong flow from the telltale, it is just way hotter than my old motor. <br /><br />The pre-purchase inspection at the dealer told me that they recommend a carb & fuel pump rebuild and a water pump & thermostat (I will get poppet valves done also) replacement this year, but they said everything was fine for now.<br /><br />Thanks for all of the suggestions and answers.