Hey guys. I love my XR4 for the most part but one thing I've always been annoyed by is that I have to sit at the dock for a good 10 minutes before I can get the boat in gear because it will stall at idle speed until it's been running for a while. Once this beast is warm, it screams and idles just fine. My only complaint is having to warm up so damn long. If I'm fast enough, I can drop the high idle lever and get it into gear before it stalls and then just putt putt out of the channel but I hate doing that because I know I'm putting a heavy shock load on the lower unit. I wait until it slows as much as I can, but it still hurts.
History on the motor. I got it with 2 bad cylinders so I rebuilt it completely. The rebuild included all new bleed valves, their hoses, all new electronics, and a full rebuild of each carb along with the standard pistons, rings etc. I bought the gauge to set up TDC properly (through the spark plug hole) and have done a Link-n-sync a few times. I'm fairly confident that I'm set up correctly with that although I do not remember numbers. This condition has existed from day one of the rebuild. Although when I start it on muffs in the drive, I can drop it to idle pretty much immediately.
My thoughts. For the rebuild I ditched the "advance module" per the recommendations on here. I know that part of it's job is to regulate idle speed. I wonder if adding one back might help. Is there one that simply controls idle and wont grenade the motor at high RPM if it fails. When setting the timing, I did use the values I found on here that you would use when the module is removed and not the standard values.
Any help is appreciated. I searched for a while but didn't find a discussion about the advance module in regards to this. I've been spoiled by the start and go of my etec on my other boat. I know it will never be like that, but I cant imagine this is just how boating was back then.
History on the motor. I got it with 2 bad cylinders so I rebuilt it completely. The rebuild included all new bleed valves, their hoses, all new electronics, and a full rebuild of each carb along with the standard pistons, rings etc. I bought the gauge to set up TDC properly (through the spark plug hole) and have done a Link-n-sync a few times. I'm fairly confident that I'm set up correctly with that although I do not remember numbers. This condition has existed from day one of the rebuild. Although when I start it on muffs in the drive, I can drop it to idle pretty much immediately.
My thoughts. For the rebuild I ditched the "advance module" per the recommendations on here. I know that part of it's job is to regulate idle speed. I wonder if adding one back might help. Is there one that simply controls idle and wont grenade the motor at high RPM if it fails. When setting the timing, I did use the values I found on here that you would use when the module is removed and not the standard values.
Any help is appreciated. I searched for a while but didn't find a discussion about the advance module in regards to this. I've been spoiled by the start and go of my etec on my other boat. I know it will never be like that, but I cant imagine this is just how boating was back then.
