15hp johnson problems starting after winter

Superduck1

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Aug 24, 2020
Messages
23
Last year I started having problems with with it starting. So we went through all the issues. Ended up rebuilding and cleaning the carb, new plugs, rebuilt the fuel pump. Eventually replaced the ignition coil. Took it out no problems starting, but the shift linkage disconnected so it was starting in gear. So after out once I took it off the boat and laid it in the shed. Put it on the boat and now having starting problems. I replaced the gas and got it to started with a little starting fluid. I know bad. So before I drive myself crazy again any ideas?
 

Superduck1

Cadet
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Aug 24, 2020
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23
Theres no issue with the water pump. I replaced the impeller last year and have no issues with it spitting water when running.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Then you can presumably check that off the list. Point is to do/redo each system with a manual in front of you.
 

Superduck1

Cadet
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Aug 24, 2020
Messages
23
Its the same one. It was laying on the ground all winter if that makes a difference. Also I forgot to run it dry.
 

Superduck1

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Aug 24, 2020
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23
The carb should be clean. I rebuilt it last year, unless sitting all winter caused it to foul up. The cam roller looks to be in good shape.
 

Crosbyman

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Nov 5, 2006
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5,760
here is the answer . Also I forgot to run it dry.

my two option are....
run it dry​
store it full of fuel and gas preservative​
if you have good sparks and compression I think you only have one option....clean the carb​
 

Superduck1

Cadet
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Aug 24, 2020
Messages
23
Well I think all my tinkering is moot. Checked compression this morning, top plug was at 60ish and the bottom 65.
 

JDusza

Ensign
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Apr 21, 2009
Messages
981
Be wary of the compression numbers. The gauge could be bad. What are the chances 2 cylinders are gone at the same time?
More likely the gauge itself is off. In addition to magnitude, the other thing you want to see from a compression test is the consistency between cylinders. You have that. 10% variation across the cylinders is a common guideline.
Most likely you have a fuel flow problem from the way the unit was stored. Wasn't run dry, stored flat. One season's storage can give you a problem. In all likelihood, your carburetor is gunked up.
J
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Once the carb is pristine clean, buy a motor stand or build one for yourself, motors should be kept resting full vertical. A stand will also serve well for running carb dry, flushing, preventive maintenance and general repair purposes...

Happy Boating
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
And...stands are fun to make. Make it big enough to accommodate a big plastic trash can so you can test and tune at bit at home.
 

Superduck1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2020
Messages
23
Well the compression tester is brand new from advanced auto parts. I tested it again, and got 80 on the top and 65 on the bottom this time making sure to do minimum of 5 pulls on each. I'll take the carb off and give it a good cleaning. When it does run, it will die real fast at a low idle or speed.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
If after cleaning the carb to an immaculate state the motor keeps dying at idle or speed seems it's an electrical related issues. Just in case, remove the Ignition Coil's ground cable that bolts to the lower crankcase, bend it back and forth, if found too easy to bend with minimum restriction chop the end terminal, peel new wire and install a new terminal...

Happy Boating
 

Superduck1

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2020
Messages
23
It doesnt die at speed. It ran great at high rpm, when in low rpm it would sputter out. I took the carb off amd took it all apart sprayed all the ports etc and after putting it back on no luck. I had my compression numbers wrong, top is 80 bottom is 70. I think I'm to the point of just taling it off the boat and doing a full rebuild.
 
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