I'm having fits with a 1979 Mercruiser 165 i6 with a skip/backfire thru the carb issue. Backfires under load and has low power, idle is a bit on the rough side. It will hold 600 rpm but its a bit rough and uneven, sometimes better than others. Boat ran fine for the first 30 minutes of first lake test then developed this issue which has gotten steady worse even as bits have been replaced/rebuilt. It is a transplant motor into a 69 Sea Ray 185, plug from 79 boat was spliced into the Sea Ray as they were different. Plug configurations were matched from the manuals provided here. Again, boat ran fine at first and developed this problem on the water...
So far I've replaced points, plugs, wires, cap and rotor button, coil, condenser and rebuilt the carb. Set timing and dwell to factory spec. New intake gasket and riser gasket. Intake is presently pulled to check for leaks or cracks. No visual issues, is there a further test I should perform?
Compression is 135,142,138,140,140,143. I don't have a proper leak down meter but pressurizing cylinders to 60 lbs shows a very small amount of air moving thru all exhaust valves.
I'm wondering if there might be issues with the resistor wire or the workings of the voltage regulator where this draws power? As this is a transplant motor is there anything that I may have missed in the plug transfer that could cause something to burn out in this area? Do they go bad and cause symptoms like this? Is it an acceptable idea to disconnect the resistor wire and run a wire directly from the battery to the coil to test and see if this is the issue?
As a side (I think) note the tach works from 0-1200 rpm but stops at that point. I've tried disconnecting it with no difference in the issue.
Thanks to all for your support on this continuing (and hopefully finished soon) project.
Steven
So far I've replaced points, plugs, wires, cap and rotor button, coil, condenser and rebuilt the carb. Set timing and dwell to factory spec. New intake gasket and riser gasket. Intake is presently pulled to check for leaks or cracks. No visual issues, is there a further test I should perform?
Compression is 135,142,138,140,140,143. I don't have a proper leak down meter but pressurizing cylinders to 60 lbs shows a very small amount of air moving thru all exhaust valves.
I'm wondering if there might be issues with the resistor wire or the workings of the voltage regulator where this draws power? As this is a transplant motor is there anything that I may have missed in the plug transfer that could cause something to burn out in this area? Do they go bad and cause symptoms like this? Is it an acceptable idea to disconnect the resistor wire and run a wire directly from the battery to the coil to test and see if this is the issue?
As a side (I think) note the tach works from 0-1200 rpm but stops at that point. I've tried disconnecting it with no difference in the issue.
Thanks to all for your support on this continuing (and hopefully finished soon) project.
Steven