Hello Everyone,
I just purchased a 1976 Grady White 21.6' the Nassau edition. It 165 i/o on it. according to the manual it has the type 3 out-drive? it is the biggest that was installed on these models. please excuse my ignorance of i/o's for this is the first one i ever owned. all my boats have been outboards. anyways the previous owner installed an over ride switch for forward and reverse in case of control box failure. great idea but on the second trip out i lost forward gear. now having outboards and issues with lower ends there was no noise. just like a light switch it turned off. i am almost 100% its electrical but not mechanical. as i said i do not know. i have reverse i used it to get into the dock. on the trailer if i put the over ride switch or the control box into reverse the prop is tuff to turn. it will but has pressure against it. i am assuming that that's a good thing. but forward just spins as its in neutral. i can spin the prop with my foot in either direction. i read the manual and it showed the 2 disconnects at the aft side of the motor. i took them apart and used a tester and had power on the blue ( reverse) when we tested the forward it showed power but then nothing. i used a jumper wire and went from positive side of battery to the green wire only (not at the same time) and the prop still spun freely. is this to say that the problem my be down in the lower end? our ignition switch acted up when we came in as well. soon as the key was turned to the on position (not the spring portion to turn over) the motor fired up.
question2:
what is the correct temp to be showing on the gauge? ours was very high then came down when i put it at about 1200 rpms. it seems to be getting plenty of water from both pumps but i can't be 100% sure. at a nice cruise around 25 knots it will hold 150 - 170 . this would be about 2200 - 2500 rpm. if i throttle up to close to 3000-3300 it will get hotter. so running full throttle as of now is out of teh question. im sure its stupid fix but seeings all different reasons of high temps on other posts, seems like it could be a lot of new parts that might not be needed or all do need them.
ty for any information regarded here.
I just purchased a 1976 Grady White 21.6' the Nassau edition. It 165 i/o on it. according to the manual it has the type 3 out-drive? it is the biggest that was installed on these models. please excuse my ignorance of i/o's for this is the first one i ever owned. all my boats have been outboards. anyways the previous owner installed an over ride switch for forward and reverse in case of control box failure. great idea but on the second trip out i lost forward gear. now having outboards and issues with lower ends there was no noise. just like a light switch it turned off. i am almost 100% its electrical but not mechanical. as i said i do not know. i have reverse i used it to get into the dock. on the trailer if i put the over ride switch or the control box into reverse the prop is tuff to turn. it will but has pressure against it. i am assuming that that's a good thing. but forward just spins as its in neutral. i can spin the prop with my foot in either direction. i read the manual and it showed the 2 disconnects at the aft side of the motor. i took them apart and used a tester and had power on the blue ( reverse) when we tested the forward it showed power but then nothing. i used a jumper wire and went from positive side of battery to the green wire only (not at the same time) and the prop still spun freely. is this to say that the problem my be down in the lower end? our ignition switch acted up when we came in as well. soon as the key was turned to the on position (not the spring portion to turn over) the motor fired up.
question2:
what is the correct temp to be showing on the gauge? ours was very high then came down when i put it at about 1200 rpms. it seems to be getting plenty of water from both pumps but i can't be 100% sure. at a nice cruise around 25 knots it will hold 150 - 170 . this would be about 2200 - 2500 rpm. if i throttle up to close to 3000-3300 it will get hotter. so running full throttle as of now is out of teh question. im sure its stupid fix but seeings all different reasons of high temps on other posts, seems like it could be a lot of new parts that might not be needed or all do need them.
ty for any information regarded here.
