16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
I just picked up this old hull and trailer for less than I spend at a trip to the grocery store. I am a complete amateur and everything I do know about restoration I think I have learned from these forums :D

The previous owner inherited from his uncle, said he re-did the deck, but the glassing job looks kind of shoddy to me. Has all the original hardware, including the frames for the bench seats (2), they are just not upholstered.

There are no holes/rips/gouges/cracks in the fiberglass under and all around.
the Transom is very solid, the whole damn boat is solid for how old it is.

I recently got a 73 Chrysler Cadet that was in way worse shape than this one.

Here are some pics, I will post the questions I will have (and I will have many I'm sure) In this thread in hopes of getting some pro advice from the community.

I am also looking for a decent outboard to throw on this baby, I only have a '73 Seahorse 2hp

DCFC0113.jpg

DCFC0111.jpg

DCFC0119.jpg

DCFC0114.jpg

DCFC0115.jpg
 
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Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Biesemeyer Project\

Biesemeyer Project\

Answer Found,
I am going to save up for a Tessilmare Rub Rail Kit, thats exactly what I need




Can someone tell me what I need to use to cover this area around the boat (look in pics)

I dont even know what to call it.:confused:I know it needs some type of sealant... silicone maybe ?

But the paneling or whatever its called, where can I get that ? What can I use ?


DCFC0111-1.jpg
 
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Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

Is 1708 Biax the only strong material you guys recommend for doing the deck?

CSM is not strong enough I take it ?

Tell me about Woven Roving ...? Can this be used.. what are its applications ?
 
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Fisherball

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
470
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

The part you need is called the rub rail. It's what usually holds the top & hull together. Kind of important if it does. Check this site under parts to find some. It consists of a grooved aluminum railing & rubber bumper that slides into the grooves. Can be expensive, a few dollars per foot, & you need lots go around the hull.

You may want to check the site called Fiberglassics.com to see what your boat looked like when new if they have a file on that brand.

http://fiberglassics.com/

Good Luck!
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

The part you need is called the rub rail. It's what usually holds the top & hull together. Kind of important if it does. Check this site under parts to find some. It consists of a grooved aluminum railing & rubber bumper that slides into the grooves. Can be expensive, a few dollars per foot, & you need lots go around the hull.

You may want to check the site called Fiberglassics.com to see what your boat looked like when new if they have a file on that brand.

http://fiberglassics.com/

Good Luck!

Thanx for the reply. rub rail it is ! I'll start shopping for that soon. I found what I thought was my ride in this post here in this forum, the guy linked some pics of it:

http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 002.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 003.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 005.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 007.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 017.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 018.jpg http://www.users.qwest.net/~john_r/bluebird 019.jpg

but there are key differences. I figure it around this year though.
I'll search here for an answer but just in case I cant find it, what will I use to attach the rub rail, what type of glue/epoxy/silicone or what do I need ?
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

Cool hull. I'll be interested to see what you do with it. The rub rail is usually held in place by the same fasteners that hold the two hull halves together. Usually rivets or screws. I think I'd personally use rivets.
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

ANSWERED

Ok so while I am still waiting on some infos for the Rub rail,
I have already torn out the old deck, (will post pics soon)
and saw that the strings should prob be replaced also.
I used a putty knife and hammer too remove a couple of the
stringers, but the other stringers I am having a hard time removing,
Any advice on removing the wooden stringers without ripping a hole
in the hull ?
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: 16ft 58-63 Biesemeyer

Here are some more pics of the project just picked up an old Fat Fafty, it looks to be in great condition just gotta do the initial tests, and drop some more money learning then repairing it.


DSCN0746.jpg

DSCN0745.jpg

DSCN0744.jpg

DSCN0743.jpg

DSCN0742.jpg

DSCN0747.jpg
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Is there anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

My worst nightmare today when I drilled a hole in the transom and found out it is rotted =-(

Anyway I want to rebuild it, is there a way to do it without splitting the 2 halves ?

Here are some pics, it seems that the transom does not take up the whole back side of the boat, and the sides are glass.

DSCN0845-1.jpg


DSCN0848.jpg


DSCN0847.jpg


DSCN0846.jpg


DSCN0844.jpg


DSCN0843.jpg
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

So do I have to split the halves to replace this transom, or can i just cut out that rotton wood with both halves attached ? refer to all my pictures in this post, if you look at the first pics in this post I have a good shot of the exterior transom. your help is appreciated

DSCN0847-1.jpg
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

If it was mine, I'd pop the cap. It's already stripped out, doesn't look like it would be that big a deal. Trust me, however bad it is, it's has to be easier than digging out the rot with the cap still in place.
 

rickryder

Commander
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

I agree with ez On a boat of that size and seeing the rub rail is off anyway pop that cap and make your life eazy.
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

ezmobee said:
If it was mine, I'd pop the cap. It's already stripped out, doesn't look like it would be that big a deal. Trust me, however bad it is, it's has to be easier than digging out the rot with the cap still in place.
I agree with ez On a boat of that size and seeing the rub rail is off anyway pop that cap and make your life eazy.

Thanks guys, I just really dont have the room to pop the cap, nor do I know the first thing about it. Any pointers ? there is no rub rail so what do I do to pry the 2 pieces off ? The 2 halves seem like they are bonded and glassed from the inside
 

Liberal623

Cadet
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
21
Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

Re: Anyway to rebuild transom without parting the upper and lower hull pieces ?

If it was mine, I'd pop the cap. It's already stripped out, doesn't look like it would be that big a deal. Trust me, however bad it is, it's has to be easier than digging out the rot with the cap still in place.


So there is a way to remove it without popping the cap? It's just a pain in the rear huh ? Well, I dont mind a pain in the rear if ther eis a way to get around popping it, it's just that if I break the glass that is holding the cap on from the inside, I will have to reglass it back, and the cloth and resin is what is going to hurt my pocket

If there is a way to do it without seperating them can you enlighten me ?
 
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